Brand: Maytag Model Number:MVWC565FW0 Main Symptom: No Spin What happens & when: After replacing the above parts, I calibrated per instructions and Viewed Error code F7E1 then cleared code per instructions. Started a new wash. Lid locks, Wash agitator & Rinse seem OK, Spin mode-Tub never spins fast but rocks hard, Lid locks, Can hear drain pump working. Washer washes, Agitator stops Water enters Tub.. Spin & Lock lights on. Spin light flashes-Lid Lock on. Lid lock light turns off. Spin light flashes but no spin. Checked error code. Still F7E1 code. What do you suggest I look for? I have tools, mechanical and some electrical skills and a Digital Multimeter.
Error Code (if any): F7E1
Parts or tests already tried: Belt, Splutch pully, Actuator and capacitor
Photos / video link:
Hi aiski55, this fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine the speed of the basket or the position of the shifter.
First, check that the basket, impeller, and motor can all rotate freely. If the basket does not turn freely, you’ll need to determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lockup before going any further.
If everything turns freely, check the wiring harness connections between the main control, motor, and shifter. Make sure there are no loose, damaged, or disconnected wires.
Next, remove the console to access the main control and make sure the J2 and J16 connectors are fully seated. If either connector is loose, reconnect it and test the washer again.
If the connections look good, test the shifter motor:
Unplug the washer and remove the J16 connector from the main control.
Using an ohmmeter, check the shifter motor resistance at the appropriate J16 pins listed in the tech sheet. Resistance should be approximately 2k–3.5k ohms.
If the resistance is open or outside that range, there is likely an issue with the shifter, wiring, or connection.
If the resistance is correct, reconnect J16.
Plug the washer back in or reconnect power.
Set your multimeter to AC voltage. Connect the black meter probe to J16-2 (Neutral) and the red probe to J16-1 (L1).
Activate the shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate in Manual Test Mode. You should see approximately 120 VAC while the control is commanding the shifter to change positions.
If you have the proper voltage but the shifter does not move or change positions, the shifter assembly is most likely faulty.
If you do not have the proper voltage coming from the control when the shifter is being commanded, double-check the wiring and connections. If those check good, the problem may be with the main control board.
This portion of the test involves live 120-volt AC power, so I would only perform it if you’re experienced and comfortable taking live voltage measurements. Otherwise, it would be safer to have an experienced technician perform this part of the diagnosis.
Using the tech sheet do another calibration test. Then it would be recommended to do test 3a for the drive system. Do a tachometer verification mode, could have a bad motor, or wire issue.
