Brand: Maytag Model Number: mvw6230hw2 Main Symptom: F9E1
I’ve got a maytag mvw6230hw2..Five years old..a few days ago I got an F9E1 error
-- unplugged it & after 5 mins replugged it..no change
-- checked drain hoses and no clogs
-- trying to run any wash (or drain) cycle and washer shows “Add Garment” (as it should) but it does nothing after that, and the cycle eventually times out and 3-5 mins later shows complete after doing nothing
-- It was recommended to change out actuator..no change..
-- I tested the drain motor for 120V and see no voltage on the 2 pins coming into it..I read on the internet that the wires going to the clip that goes into the drain pump can be broken, but I don’t see any broken wiring
-- went into diagnostic mode and ran drain pump test multiple times and hear no noises whatsoever
Any thoughts / ideas / suggestions would be appreciated…I’m just an amateur but willing to try things
I’d test the drain pump circuit from the main control board area. With the washer disconnected from power I would look for the J6 connector, 6-pins, 5-wires, Red-Brown-Light Blue-Orange-(Empty)-White.
Rory…Thanks for the suggestions…That might be a little too deep for me, but as I said I’m willing to try things and learn as I go, and as reluctant as I am to try and figure out how to separate the control panel I guess I gotta try it before replacing the unit and giving up…
That said here’s the end of my troubleshooting adventure tonight with new variables:
A few mins ago I removed the gray power clip that seats into the drain pump and took a voltage reading on the metal connectors inside the power clip…I went back to diagnosis & activated the drain pump then took a reading on the clip itself (still isolated from the pump) and I was getting 94V…I also heard a ‘click’ inside some part of the machine when I activated the drain pump, and I did it twice to be sure I wasn’t imagining it…Now I’m even more confused…Could something realistically be wonky with the clip itself or does it seem more wiring based at this point ??
That still pretty well leaves us at the harness or the control board. You can try checking that voltage at the control board from Light Blue to White with the harness connected to the board. If you still get 94VAC then the issue is with the board.
I was able to remove the cover and get to the control board, but I don’t show anything labeled as J6 and I don’t see any wiring configs similar to your description…These are the ones that made the most sense of what it seems like I should be looking for but I’m not sure which one is correct (if it’s either of them).
That likely may have summed it all up…I tested at the BLK / LT BL terminals as you recommended and was getting 95V testing with the harness connected…I then removed the clip and found the same voltage testing off of the corresponding control board pins…So it’s 100% the control board if I’m understanding correctly ??
I appreciate your help in this diagnosis and sending me the link for it’s replacement…Now I just gotta speak with the other half and see if we replace the control board or the entire washer…Not sure if repair is worth it, but everything else seems fine with it.
So today I received my new control board…I switched it out and verified all of the connections were made and secured…I attempted to run DLMS calibration cycle, and the display screen went dead in 1 second and did nothing else.
Now I looked at the fault codes and I have an F6E1 code…Did I receive a bad board ??
The control board should be fine then. If you leave the washer unplugged for 5 minutes and plug it back in will it then power up or let you into diagnostic mode?
Ok, before you try anything else, unplug the washer and check the resistance reading of that drain pump circuit. The 1st thing these generally try and verify is the drain pump.
I removed the clip that contains the drain motor (I tested at the BLK / LT BL terminals with both the harness connected and disconnected) and measured 1.9 ohms.
Ok, that’s a bad drain pump, that’ll also be what took out your original control board. That reading should be 17-22Ω. It’ll keep trying to cycle on that bad drain pump and eventually backfeed and fry the board, so just leave the washer unplugged until the drain pump can be replaced.
This isn’t good…Just to make sure everything looked good with the ‘new’ control board before ordering a drain pump I retook the voltage reading on the pins for the drain pump and now I’m only getting 7.6V out of the ‘new’ control board (where I was getting 95V with the previous board).
I then swapped the ‘new’ board with the ‘old’ original, and now the original is now putting out 103V.
Wouldn’t that sound like the ‘new’ board is bad also (as well as possibly the drain pump) ??
