Brand: Maytag Model Number: MHWE950WW01 Main Symptom: Will not spin at maximum speed What happens & when:
Works fine except it will not spin at the maximum speed at the end of a wash or drain and spin cycle. While running a diagnostic test, it will spin at the maximum speed (which is the last step) every time. Even if the machine is empty, it will not spin at maximum speed during a wash cycle. This also causes the machine to run longer that it used to. As an example, the “Drain and Spin” cycle used to take 13 minutes but it now goes for at least 20 minutes because it attempts to spin at maximum speed but fails. There are four spin speeds (low, medium, high, and max extract) and I would guess it spins at the medium setting (unless in diagnostic mode where it spins at max extract).
I have replaced both boards (main control and motor control) as well as the shocks but the problem persists. There are no error codes. I know it is an old machine but works great other than the clothes don’t come out of the wash cycle as dry as they used to.
Any thoughts on what is the problem or tests I can run?
When the diagnostic mode is activated, is it by pressing a button for 2-5 seconds, releasing the button for 2-5 seconds, pressing the same button for 2-5 seconds, releasing the button for 2-5 seconds, and then pressing it again for 2-5 seconds? Or is the Test Only mode being activated by closing the door, pushing the power button, selecting the drain and spin program, selecting “No Spin”, then pushing Steam Clean four times? Error codes would only be shown if the first method is used.
If I run the diagnostic mode (as you indicated, pressing and releasing a button for 2-5 seconds) the only error codes shown are F21 but they are from a while back when clothing was stuck in the drain pump. During normal wash cycles and the test, the machine drains very rapidly and does not show F21 during a normal wash cycle.
Does the spin basket rotate by hand freely with just a little resistance from the belt and motor rotating with it? Also, if the motor is accessed through the back panel and the wires from the motor control disconnected, what resistance do the two thin red wires show when tested with a multimeter? What resistance is found when testing each of the larger wires to the other large wires?
Yes, the basket rotates freely. I have not run that test. It is a stacked washer/dryer so it’s a bit cumbersome to unstack. So I won’t know the answer until this weekend but if it spins at maximum in test mode (and diagnostic which runs the test mode at the end), would the resistance test tell us anything? Also, while I have it apart, are there any other tests you recommend?
With it being stacked, you should be able to do the same thing from the front when the power supply is turned off at the breaker and the bottom panel is removed. The wires going from the inverter to the motor can be used instead. It should be two tan wires for the thin wires. The resistance checks are to verify there is not something going on with the tachometer or the motor that may be affecting operation. The diagnostic test mode forces parts to operate. While this is good for obtaining test readings, it can also force components to operate “normally”. Since the main control and the motor control have already been replaced, and there is not a new error, checking other possibilities would be the next step. Also, when the drain and spin cycle is selected, does the user interface automatically go to the max extract selection or does it switch to a different speed? This is to identify if the user interface is doing something it should not.
Finally able to test resistance. The wires were all black going from the motor control board to the motor but with the wiring diagram I was able to determine if you remove the wire connector from the front of the motor, the top pin is 1 and bottom is 5. 4 and 5 were connected to small red wires on the back side so assumed they were for the tachometer. Here are the readings:
1 to 2: 6.2 ohms
2 to 3: 6.3 ohms
1 to 3: 6.3 ohms
4 to 5: 117.5 ohms
These all match the normal readings according to the tech data sheet inside the washer.
As for what spin speed is default when drain and spin cycle is selected, it is max extract.
For fun, since I had the front panel off, I opened the drain pump to make sure nothing was inside and it was completely clear.
And after reassembling, I ran a diagnostic test. During step C08, it definitely reached max speed. Then tried a Drain and Spin cycle on max extract and it took longer than expected and never got close to max speed. It spent a lot of time at the five minute mark (the timer did not change for a bit).
It sounds like this is either going to be a case of the washer thinking it is taking longer than normal to drain, or it is thinking that it is going out of balance during a wash cycle. If you are able to pull the washer and dryer out enough to access the back panel, or rotate it enough, the back panel can be removed and the pressure hose disconnected from the tub port. Attempt a drain and spin cycle. Will it go through the drain and spin cycle properly? If it does, there is likely a partial clog or a floater in the pressure hose port on the tub that would need to be cleaned out.
The washer is fixed! Unfortunately, I don’t know the exactly what caused the problem. Here is what I did:
1. Disconnected the pressure hose from the tub port.
2. Blew into the hose but there wasn’t any air flow or sound of a pressure switch clicking.
3. Ran Drain and Spin and it reached max speed.
4. Removed tub port and cleaned it out thoroughly. It didn’t appear to be clogged, just a little mold.
5. Removed pressure hose (no breaks in the hose) and blew threw it (nothing came out).
6. Reassembled and ran D&S (5x) and Rinse and Drain (1x). Worked every time!!
I wish I could say that there was a visible clog but at least it is working. If the problem returns, is it possible it is a faulty pressure switch?
Thank you so much for all your help. Wish I had reached out before replacing the boards (which probably were fine).
The fix was short lived. Ran eight drain/spin and rinse/sping and two wash loads and it worked fine but on the third load, the washer no longer reached high speed spin. Ran a drain and spin cycle and it does not reach high speed spin. It is a 13 minute cycle but it takes over 20 minutes. It stays at the five minute mark, not spinning (or spinning very slowly) with the drain pump running.
Wondering if the pressure switch is mechanical and by blowing into the pressure tube, I opened the switch which caused it to work for a couple days but is now stuck closed again? Do you think I should replace the pressure switch? Thanks.