Brand: Maytag
Model Number: MHWE201YW00
Main Symptom: Spinning
What happens & when: ends cycle without spinning.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: replaced belt, cleaned drain pump, door lock sensor light stays on
Photos / video link:
Hi, the spin cycle on my front loading Maytag washer 2000 series (2012 year) has gradually gotten worse and worse. When running a normal wash cycle the washer seems to skip over the spin cycle. Started running a second rinse/spin cycle after each wash cycle to spin the clothes but gradually that has started failing too. The washer either doesn’t spin or doesn’t reach high spin speeds, or spins at high speed momentarily (30s) then stops and then doesn’t spin for the rest of the rinse/drain cycle. There is no burning smell, no straining/squealing, loads are balanced (no wobbling); when it spins, it typically just spins gently and then stops. No error code and the washer door lock light remains solid the entire time.
It seems likely to be a CCU or MCU problem. Would like to check diagnostics for error codes - how do I entire diagnostic mode? The MCU part number WPW10315848 (integrated motor and MCU assembly) on appliancepartspros.com indicates it is discontinued and no longer available - can anyone confirm? They also told me that there are 2 CCU boards for this model of washer - how do I know which one I need - will either work? THANK YOU!
I just found out how to enter diagnostic mode - repeatedly press 3 buttons in series 3 times. After entering diagnostic mode, if I press the 3rd button, I see LF E1 and F9 - long fill and long drain time. I already cleaned out the drain pump filter. Does this mean I need a new drain pump?
The LFE1 is the more concerning of those 2 codes. That’s a long fill code, if one of the cold valve WPW10212596 solenoids doesn’t let enough water in during Rinse then Spin won’t run. Initial fill usually involves the hot and cold valves regardless of temperature selection, but Rinse is cold only. Try running the Rinse, Drain, & Spin cycle and see if it seems like the fill is weaker than what you see when running a Normal cycle. If it is, then that valve needs to be replaced. You can try running the diagnostic mode auto test cycle as well, but it activates both cold valve solenoids instead of just 1.
Thanks Rory! We wash cold all the time, independent of cycle, and most recently just using rapid wash. I’m not sure if I notice a difference in fill rate bw washing vs rinse drain spin but haven’t paid close attention - will try. How do I run the diagnostic mode auto test cycle? What will that tell me?
I’m attaching the tech sheet, that goes over all the diagnostic mode test information. Running that test activates components individually and you might be able to tell a difference in water flow when it switches between cold and hot during the test cycle.
techsheet-w10385295-reva.pdf (774.5 KB)
If there is no error code related to MCU and ECU does that mean they are probably ok?
It is pretty unlikely that either the CCU or MCU would be your issue here, especially if you run that diag test cycle and it spins without issue once it gets to that part of the cycle.
just to confirm, activating the automated test is the diagnostic mode auto test you are referring to?
That is correct, diag auto and automated test are the same thing.
Trying to run the automated test - pressed 2nd button momentarily in diagnostic mode. The display shows the numeral 1 but nothing happened after waiting several minutes and now the display is dark. Is there something else I should do?
If the door is closed it should lock it and start the test cycle without further input.
If it isn’t, try unplugging the washer for about 30 seconds to reset everything and try again.
Still doesn’t initiate. The door is closed and the drum is empty. I do hear the single beep feedback when I press the 2nd key. Maybe will try turning off the breaker?
still can’t get the diagnostic test to run … 
Try pressing the 2nd button again or pressing start, sometimes they left that out of the instructions on these older models.
Got the auto diagnostic cycle to run by repeatedly pressing the 3rd button after the second button until A displayed? During the diagnostic the drum spun but not at the highest speed. Cleaned inlet cold solenoid screen and removed cold hose kinks. No observable difference bw empty normal cycle fill and rinse/drain/spin fill; drum drained in about 64s so drain pump working ok. In diagnostics, cleared error codes and reran washer cycle - error codes did not reappear despite spin cycle not running (or sustaining high speed); checked shock absorbers - empty drum bouncy and springy when pressed down so is it likely that worn shock absorbers are likely the cause of the spin cycle issues? Will replacing shock absorbers correct issues?
Worn out suspension can keep it from reaching high spin. I forgot to say something yesterday, but also make sure the highest spin speed is selected before starting a cycle, that gets changed accidentally sometimes.
