Magic Chef washer CAV2004AWW sometimes hums and won't spin

Brand: Magic Chef
Model Number: CAV2004AWW
Main Symptom: Sometimes, not always, makes a humming noise and won’t spin in spin cycle
What happens & when:

The washer (motor) made a loud humming sound at the spin cycle, would not spin, and within a few seconds tripped the breaker on the power bar.

The sound reminded me of a ceiling fan that would not start, and the fix for that was replacing the start capacitor. As far as I’m aware this washer does not have a start capacitor and uses a centrifugal start switch.

Tests and observations:

  • motor starts every time without the belt/load
  • water pump turns freely by hand
  • main pulley has resistance, which can be a bit inconsistent, but can be turned by hand
  • when motor hums/stalls, rotating the main pulley a bit and trying again might get it to start

I know that there is something not quite right about the cams on the main pulley for the brake release: they are not pitted but they somehow stick occasionally on the high, brakes disengaged, position. I have removed and cleaned the thrust bearing, cams, pulley, shims, and regreased with Super Lube 21030 (multi-purpose, synthetic, with syncolon/PTFE, NGLI 2).

I was considering getting a replacement thrust bearing kit, but don’t want to put money into the machine if it is dead or not worth repair.

I removed the cover of the start switch on the motor and noticed the points for the first stage have some discoloration/blackening. I used a bit of sandpaper and isopropyl alcohol to clean the contact surfaces a bit. It did not seem to make a difference.

Since the main pulley is not locked up, to the extent that I can turn it by one hand in an awkward position, I wonder, is it normal for the motor to stall (i.e. lack torque at start) with such a level of resistance that can be overcome by hand?

What is likely the source of the issue? I am willing to test, but given the age of the machine I am reluctant to throw parts at it unless a diagnosis can be confirmed.

A further issue not relevant right now is that the rear left “self-leveling” foot appears to be collapsed. It just slides all the way in, while the the rear left foot stays extended, causing a severe see-saw effect until it is jostled and compensated with extreme adjustments from the front legs. The machine had a fair bit of vibration during operation despite being relatively decently leveled, but I now suspect that it may have had only 3 of 4 points of support. I would think about putting a shim externally on the foot to level manually, if the machine gets operational. However this also makes me more reluctant to spend money on the machine if multiple points are failing.

I’m trying to understand the cause of the failures so that an informed choice can me made of what to do next.

Hi, unplug the washer and remove the drive belt from the motor pulley. Plug it back in and start a spin cycle for just a few seconds.

If the motor starts and runs normally with the belt removed, the motor is working and something in the transmission, pulley, or brake system is binding.

If the motor still hums, struggles to start, or doesn’t spin at all with the belt removed, the motor itself has failed and will need to be replaced.

Hi, thanks for your reply.

With the drive belt removed, the motor spins. It still makes a slight buzz sound for a split second, but succeeds in starting every time.

Also, when the drive belt is install, sometimes the motor spins and sometimes it buzzes and doesn’t start. When the issue happens, I can still rotate the pulley by hand, and then the motor might start.

Is it normal that a load which I can turn by hand could cause the motor to stall? Or does this indicate the motor is weaker than normal?

Hi, sorry, but that does indicate the motor is getting weak and no longer has enough power to spin the clothes properly. At this point, replacing the motor is going to be the best solution to get the unit working correctly again.

Is it possible to service any part of the motor? What would make the motor weak?

There seems very little to go wrong in a motor. The bearings turn fine, and the coils are not shorted.

Here is a video and audio of attempts to run motor: https://i.imgur.com/7I6nuIK.mp4

I noticed the contact points in the switch box screwed on top for the motor were blackened:

I cleaned and smoothed them with fine sandpaper and isopropyl alcohol. Blackening reappeared after a few attempted runs.