Lid lock light is flashing after replacing the lid lock

Washer Repair
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Washer

Brand:Maytag
Model Number:MVWX500XW2
Main Symptom:Will not go into cycle
What happens & when:Will not go into cycle and lid lock light flashes and won’t let me open the lid

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: tried resetting and replaced the lid lock switch
Photos / video link:

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Since you already replaced the lid lock, I would not replace it again yet. On the MVWX500XW2, a flashing Lid Lock light can be caused by another fault that prevents the control from completing the startup sequence. The shift actuator/tachometer circuit is high on my list for this particular symptom.

First — get the lid open

Unplug the washer for about 5 minutes. After plugging it back in, give it a minute or two to release the lock. If it remains mechanically locked, unplug it again before manually releasing the latch.

Also inspect the lid strike where it enters the new latch. Make sure it isn’t cracked, bent, or missing. The strike for this model is WPW10240513.

Next — retrieve the stored error codes

This washer uses Whirlpool’s VMW diagnostic system. The tech sheet should be inside the cabinet and contains the exact diagnostic procedure for this machine.

With the washer plugged in but all indicator lights OFF:

  1. Pick any three buttons except Power.
  2. Within about 8 seconds, press:
    Button 1 → Button 2 → Button 3
  3. Repeat that sequence three times:
    1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3
  4. If successful, all the console indicators should illuminate and the washer enters diagnostics.
  5. Retrieve the stored fault codes before replacing anything else.

If you give me the F# E# codes, I can narrow this down considerably.

Since the lid lock is new, test the circuit

Unplug the washer before making resistance measurements.

At the main control, locate the J15 lid-lock connector. On this platform the published checks are:

Test Pins Normal reading
Lock solenoid J15-1 to J15-3 85–155 Ω
Lock switch J15-3 to J15-4 0 Ω locked / OL unlocked
Lid switch J15-3 to J15-2 0 Ω lid closed / OL lid open

These tests check the new lock plus its wiring back to the control, which is important because a broken wire or poor J15 connection can make a perfectly good new latch appear defective.

If those readings are correct, stop chasing the lid lock.

Check the shift actuator next

The shift actuator for this model is WPW10006355. It doesn’t just shift between agitate and spin—it also provides basket-speed/tachometer information to the control. A failure there can cause the machine to abort operation and flash the Lid Lock light even though the latch itself isn’t the problem.

Tip the washer back and inspect underneath. Check:

  • Actuator connector fully seated
  • Broken/chafed wires
  • Actuator arm properly engaged with the splutch
  • Splutch isn’t jammed
  • Belt is installed and intact
  • Basket and transmission pulley can turn

If diagnostics produces F7E1 or F7E7, I would move the actuator/tachometer and drive system very high on the suspect list rather than replacing another lid lock. A documented MVWX500XW2 repair with the same flashing-lock/no-spin behavior traced the problem to the actuator’s tachometer function.

What I’d do

Don’t buy another part yet. Since you’ve already installed the lid lock, my order of diagnosis would be:

Pull fault codes → test J15 lid-lock circuit → run manual diagnostics → check shift actuator/tachometer → check wiring → main control last.

If you send me the fault codes you get, I’ll give you the next meter test and exact component to check.