Got this as part of a set, dryer having issues. Tested it at home and the test load did not dry completely, clothes still damp. Doesn’t seem to get as hot as I’d expect it to. When I tried to start again it would stop immediately after starting. Duct in machine looks completely clear and duct exiting the house is only about 2’ long - don’t think it’s any sort of blockage issue.
Update 23 Jan: Have tested the thermal fuse on the heating element housing for continuity and have ruled that out. Motor looks to be in good condition, axle spins freely. Vacuumed out the unit but there was only a mild amount of lint buildup. Circuit board behind touch panel does not have any blown connections that I can see (though it is very small and it’s possible that I missed one).
Brand: LG
Model Number: DLEX3700V
Main Symptom: Clothes still damp after running load, subsequently shutting off immediately after restarting
What happens & when: Clothes still damp after running load, subsequently shutting off immediately after restarting
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Hard reset
Photos / video link:
If the unit is shutting off after releasing the button then the centrifugal switch on the motor is the most likely cause for this issue.
I’m not seeing this part in the diagram. Can you provide a link or part number so I know what I’m looking for before I disassemble the dryer again?
The centrifugal switch is part of the motor and is internal. This would require the motor to be replaced.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-drive-motor-assembly-4681el1008a-ap4438218.html
How can I confirm this is the issue? I don’t want to order the wrong part, especially since it isn’t cheap
Test to make sure that there is 240 vac getting to the heater when the dryer should be running. If there is not proper voltage then it would most likely be a faulty motor.
Replaced the motor and still having same issue. Clothes are not getting all the way dry. Exhaust feels warm but dryer likely isn’t getting hot enough. Ran a timed dry load on high heat with same result as on sensor dry.
Is the heater getting 240 Vac to it?
How do I check that? Double checked all components on the heating element and am getting continuity/appropriate ohms. Housing also not getting a ready so the coil is not broken/shorted.
You would need to have the unit hooked up with the door switch depressed and front panel off to access the heater. Then you would start the dryer and test the heater terminals for 240 vac.
I’ve tried doing this but am not getting a reading. Have tried holding contacts to the red and white connectors on both the hi limit fuse and thermostat, neither will register. Also tried same procedure with unit assembled and only ducting removed to access from the back, same result.
Ran diagnostics again and heater is able to get over 50C. Also tested a 125v outlet to make sure that the issue wasn’t my multimeter.
If the thermal fuse and the hi limit thermostat have continuity and the heater is not getting voltage then the control board will likely be the issue.
Does what I said verify that the heater is not getting voltage?
I can’t afford to be just guessing and replacing one expensive part after another
So, it if there is no continuity on the hi limit thermostat and the thermal fuse then they would need to be replaced.
Please read my responses. Both the hi limit thermostat and the thermal fuse have continuity. I’m asking if the temp recorded in diagnostic mode indicates that the heater is getting proper voltage.
The fact that the unit is getting to 50C then it does sound like it is getting 240 vac and it sounds like the thermistor on the blower housing may be the issue.
Replacing the thermistor also didn’t work. Light comes on, beeps, and shuts off abruptly after starting.
Have you put the unit into service diagnostics to see what error code there is.
Yes, nothing came up. Ran them all by LG support.