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Brand:kitchen aid
Model Number:krfc704fps05
Main Symptom:ice auger not turning
What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:replaced auger motor
Photos / video link:
When the auger motor was replaced, did the drive shaft look like it might have been worn? If not, is it fully seating in the motor and the ice bin? Also, does the ice seem like it is bridging together at the bottom of the ice bin?
Thanks for responding William. The shaft did not seem worn and it was fully seated. The ice does seem to be bridging together in the base of the bucket.
If you remove the ice bin, shine the light of a flashlight up into the dispenser, and look down the ice chute from the inner panel, does light shine through or does the dispenser door keep the light blocked out?
It keeps the light out. When I push the dispenser, it opens up, but the auger does not turn.
When the auger motor was replaced, was there any ice or water on the wire connection? Also, if you check the wire harness at the door hinge, do the red wire and the white wire in the harness look like they are intact or does one look like it might be damaged?
No ice or water on the connection when the auger was replaced. Also, checked the white and red wire and all the wiring in the connection at the door, and they all looked good. Fully inserted and no damage that I could tell.
With the door switch pressed closed, does the auger motor turn when the bin is clear of bridged ice and the dispenser is pressed? If not, a multimeter would need to be set to Volts DC, the auger motor removed, and the two wires tested for voltage when the dispenser is pressed. Does 130-140 Volts DC reach the auger motor wire connection?
When the bin is free of bridged ice, the auger motor does not turn. When I tested the wires for voltage, it went from 0 to 9 V on the DC and the AC side of my meter. Do you think I need a new control board? Is it not sending the right amount of current to the auger motor?
It is possible. A way to verify would be accessing the main control in the back of the appliance. It may be necessary to use small sections of a thin paper clip to extend each meter probe to needle points if you do not have needle probes. At the main control connection P3, there will be a red wire and a white wire next to each other at pin 7 and pin 8. With the doors closed, and the dispenser pressed, does 130-140 Volts DC show up at the main control? Here is a picture of where the wires should be on the main control, and a link to the main control board for reference. W11664342 Refrigerator Electronic Control Board Assembly | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock
When I use a multimeter on the red and white pins it goes from 1.6 V to 3.3 when the icemaker dispenser button is pressed. I have my multimeter dial set at 200 V on the DC side.
Based on all that has been checked, the main control would be the cause for failure.
