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Brand: Kitchen Aid
Model Number:KRSC503ESS00
Main Symptom:Not Dispensing Ice
What happens & when:Makes & Harvests Ice but does not dispense ice
Error Code (if any):None
Parts or tests already tried:W11202789 Ice Dispenser Auger Motor, WPW10743957 Control Board, W11130211 Dispenser Control Board, W11130210 Ice Dispenser Door Flapper
Photos / video link:
That’s gonna be the wiring harness built into the door LW10728959. The door has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available for purchase. The manufacturer does not list a compatible substitute or replacement part.
You can take off the kick plate and look at the wiring harnesses running up into the door. Look for any pinched or damaged wires. Sometimes you’ll get lucky and those wires can be spliced back together. The ones for the auger are on the 3-pin, 3-wire harness. You should have Green, Grey, and Blue wires there, the ones for the auger are the Grey and the Blue.
If that harness can’t be fixed then there isn’t any repair unless you happen to find a replacement door somewhwere.
Thanks for a quick reply! I was told about these wires before. I have already taken the wire harness apart and found 2 wires that were broken so I cut the rest and reconnected them all. What doesn’t make any sense is that if I use a meter directly on the control board, 7 & 8, nothing happens when I press the paddle?? I thought the control board should produce the 140 VDC. And yes if the wires are broken then the voltage would not get to the auger motor. Would it be possible to run two new wires directly from the control board to the auger motor?
Thank you!!
DC does weird stuff when it can’t actually be put under load, so you may not get that 140vdc reading. Theoretically you could run new wires up through the door, I don’t know anyone that has done it, though, and don’t know how difficult it would be to fish those wires through.
Before doing all of that I’d check the continuity of those wires through the door. If you’ve got the auger motor connected you should be getting roughly 100-300Ωs at the bottom of the door from Blue to Grey if I remember correctly.
If you’ve got continuity/resistance then it might be the control board, but you’ve already replaced that and it would be unlikely to have 2 boards fail in the exact same way unless the auger motor circuit is shorting them out.
Okay I think you are on to something I didn’t think about. I will test the ohms of the auger. As mentioned I already replaced one auger motor. I will open the auger motor area up again and find out what the resistance is. Then I can check the wires at the bottom hinge as before. Then a couple more questions. There are 3 connectors at the bottom, two whites and a yellow. And another wiring harness that goes directly back to the controller board. Can you tell me which colored wires go to directly to the auger? You thought maybe Blue To Grey. If I open up the auger area then I should find a Blue and a Grey, Correct? Once again I’ve spent lots with your company and I’m really grateful for this assistance!
Yup, should be Blue and Grey at the auger motor as well. On the control board you’d look for the P3 connector, Blue and Grey there too.
wiring-sheet-W10751694-RevA.pdf (790.0 KB)
On your wiring diagram page 4, is the auger motor called the “ICE DISP MOTOR”? And it shows Terminal 1 as GY/OR and Terminal 7 as BU. What is the PTC inside it? And if I follow the wires to the controller board it shows going to GEMINI FLASH Connector P3 Pin 7 (BU -) and Pin 8 (GY +) correct? And the Voltage Chart to the right shows P3 140 VDC when motor is active correct? Thank you!!
Yup, the ice dispenser motor is the auger motor and that PTC you are seeing is built into the auger motor. Correct, P3-7 to P3-8, should be 140VDC when active, but you may not get that voltage if the circuit is broken.