Hello,
I recently replaced the door seal (kit with adhesive) and am curious if I am doing this right. Might be a silly question and I can’t make heads and tails out of the diagram or I want to double check that I did it right. The manual states that I need to face the white line towards the outside of the tub except there is no white line. There are two parts to this seal, one half of it has ridges and a catch while the other has an inner tube shaped like a leaf. I put the adhesive in the track and put in the ridges and catch (with the catch facing the outside rather than the inside of the but). Thus the tube is the only part that is now sitting against the track. Sorry, the best way I can describe it but I can post a pic or something if that helps. If you have one, that would definitely help.
My second problem is that the water does not heat at all about 9 out of 10 times. One out of ten times, the heater comes on like it should. So, I have an intermittent problem there somewhere. The bottom of the dishwasher doesn’t show any loose connections nor burnouts.
Thoughts? Appreciate the help as I am ready to throw in the towel on this one and call someone. I have already fixed the chopper and leaks at the bottom of the tub (which developed after I replaced the chopper so the heat problem existed before that).
Hi, I read the article regarding continuity testing and know how to use meters…Question: does anyone have any suggestions on the route to take to test for continuity or have pictures or diagrams or tech sheets for my model of dishwasher, KUDI01FLWH0? I could start with the obvious, the heating element. Also, there is a thermister that I noticed in one of the drawings (sticks out in the middle of the dishwasher, could that be bad if my dishwasher isn’t heating? I have also cleaned the vents the best I can as well as all the parts leading up to the upper spray and lower spray arm.
Sorry if you have answered this question before, I couldn’t find anything that answers my question, perhaps this site is for customers only?
Still hoping for some help from this forum and getting educated in the process. Checked continuity on the motor to ensure my meter and method is correct, get around 15-20 ohms…repeated the method across the two connections for the heating element at the bottom of the dishwashwer and meter doesn’t register, same with the two contact points for the thermistor. Could both be bad? The two are isolated, i.e. I removed the connectors. I got the same result for inlet valve and I know that works. What am I doing wrong? Thx.
[COLOR=Blue]Still hoping for some help from this forum and getting educated in the process. [/COLOR]
You did not show a Model Number in your first post so many may have looked and just moved on.
Not sure about the seal but may be able to help with the heater problem
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Checked continuity on the motor to ensure my meter and method is correct, get around 15-20 ohms[/COLOR]
You really have to disconnect the motor connector and capacitor to check the windings.
[COLOR=Blue]repeated the method across the two connections for the heating element at the bottom of the dishwashwer and meter doesn’t register[/COLOR]
This should be between 10 and 35 ohms. Sounds like it is shot.
Note that you also have a cutoff thermostat in the heater circuit, it should be 0 ohms.
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same with the two contact points for the thermistor.[/COLOR]
Should be about 50,000 ohms at room temperature.
[COLOR=Blue] Could both be bad?[/COLOR]
Possible but doubtful
[COLOR=Blue]The two are isolated, i.e. I removed the connectors. I got the same result for inlet valve and I know that works. What am I doing wrong?[/COLOR]
If your meter has a 20 ohm scale then anything above 20 ohms will read as an open (infinite ohms). So your scale always has to be higher than the device you are measuring.. Try a higher scale.
Here is how I use my meter.
When looking for a closed contact I use the lowest scale. Turn the meter on and short the leads together. This tells you if the meter is working and if there is any offset on the meter reading.
When checking a resistance choose a mid scale. If it reads an open go to a higher scale, to ensure it is really open. If it reads a short (0 ohms) go to a lower scale till you reach the lowest scale. This ensures it is a true short.
A high scale may read a 0 when in reality there is resistance there, it is just it is outside the readability of the scale. You have run out of digits. For instance if you are trying to read 10 ohms on a 20 kilohm scale it will show 0 ohms. On a 20,000 ohm scale, to see 10 you would need a 5 digit display.
Denman, thanks a bunch. Here’s the latest that I have. I will try to be more descriptive, hoping it helps someone. I have learned more than I ever wanted to know but a lot to be done as I have four problems;
Door leaks (at the top and then it rolls down to either side). This is after replacing the seal, a lot better (from a bucket to a few spoonfuls). If you or someone has pics on how this seal goes in, that would be great. I can lick the whole tubing, it’s so clean and water pressure is good, everything spins like it’s supposed to.
Leak at the bottom. I have the whole thing out now including the motor assembly so I plan to redo this tomorrow. The seal is good and I have cleaned it and the area. Will use some lubricant to sit it down. I tried that before but it leaked after two days, and yes, the three tabs were in place.
The chopper is broken, need to replace that. I ended up breaking the plastic while trying to take the motor out. I needed to replace it anyway as it was suspect.
No heat. Here are the steps I have taken:
a). My Thermal fuse which is near the control panel (white) in the door checks ok (zero ohms).
b). My switch is fine and clicks in place (engages when you close the door).
c). My Thermistor is fine…has very high resistance when cold and lower resistance when hot (I dipped it in hot water), working as expected.
d). Capacitor on the motor is fine…I left the leads in place because the motor was disconnected showing infinite resistance…so that has checked out ok as well. Checked it while I was at it.
e). Motor is good, resistance there as well and same for the transformer looking thing.
f). Inlet valve, check.
I think that leaves me with one where my continuity check fails, the heating element. It apparently comes with a control board which I will replace in the process although what I have seems to work just fine (it doesn’t do the 7 blink issue everyone has been talking about).
The dishwasher cycle is about 120 minutes versus 80 so definitely the heater is not working. Should it not stop and blink seven times like others versus completing the cycle (not that I am complaining)?
I think you have already found the heating problem.
You measured the element and it is an open (infinite resistance) so it is shot.
Could be that the heating wire inside the element has a break and sometimes it makes a connection.
I will look for info on the door gasket for you.
Check the upper and middle spray arms for cracks or a partially plugged hole.
This can cause the water to spray out at a weird angle and cause a leak.
Check the tub bottom to make sure that it is not warped.
I would not bother with greasing it.
You tried it once and it did not work so probably will not work the second time and you will just have to rip it out again.
Just make sure it is nice and clean and also the tub surfaces.
Here is a great site from one of the people who also volunteers here which may help, take a look under Kitchenaid and Dishwashers. Appliance Repair Blog
Hi Denman, here’s my update. Replaced the element, so far so good, seems hotter but I haven’t taken true measurements but the temperature is not dropping so that’s good. No leaks at the bottom, don’t need any lubrication, just a lot of cleaning as you mentioned…also one of my tabs had come loose so it was offset about a 1/4 of an inch, causing all sorts of havoc. Also, to everyone, be careful or you will get cuts on your fingers, very sharp…I have used a lot of bandaids on this one.
Replacement of the control module was simple, no issues there although I have noticed a strange thing and something could have been happening all the time. I don’t think the float is being used at all…as it lifts, it’s supposed to open a switch. When I start the cycle, the dishwasher kicks in, fills 2.5 liters less than what I think it ought to be (I manually added about 2.5 liters and float engages as it should while tripping the switch below, water still below the element as it ought to be). The float, the valve, the tubing all the way to the connections to the tub are squeaky clean as I took them out and cleaned them out fully. The float is not getting a chance to work (checked continuity of the switches and everything). The valve doesn’t show continuity but it’s obviously working because some water is getting in. Also, I know I need 1.9 Liters in 27 seconds according to the tech sheet and I am getting about double that from the water pipe that connects to the valve so pressure is not the problem. Is the fill timed and does the system not wait for the float to do its work? Should the valve show continuity?
Also, if you have any thoughts on door seal, that would be great.
[COLOR=Blue]Is the fill timed and does the system not wait for the float to do its work? [/COLOR]
Yes the fill is just by time. The float is just a safety device to shut the water off in case the timer gets stuck in fill. It should not normally get activated. If you are not getting enough water could be the valve needs replacing. If the wash results are good then you have enough water.
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Should the valve show continuity?[/COLOR]
Yes but I am not sure what it should be. Since it is opening, it has continuity.
Denman, thanks for all your help and guidance, you are a good man.
Just want to double check. Are you saying that in normal operation, a float will probabably never get engaged? The only reason I ask is because in the wash cycle I put in enough water manually (6.5 liters) and the float began to lift, shut the door and the dishwater still took some water in (probably the other .3 liters that it requires for a wash) till the float engaged and started the wash cycle.
Also, maybe the valve is meant to open under power and close when there is no power and considering it’s disconnected, probably showing no continuity…maybe, who knows.
On the plus side, the dishes came out sparkling so there’s some, wait, a lot of progress made. So, thanks again.
[COLOR=Blue]Just want to double check. Are you saying that in normal operation, a float will probabably never get engaged? [/COLOR]
Correct
[COLOR=Blue]The only reason I ask is because in the wash cycle I put in enough water manually (6.5 liters) and the float began to lift, shut the door and the dishwater still took some water in (probably the other .3 liters that it requires for a wash) till the float engaged and started the wash cycle.[/COLOR]
It should just fill by time.
[COLOR=Blue]Also, maybe the valve is meant to open under power and close when there is no power and considering it’s disconnected, probably showing no continuity…maybe, who knows.[/COLOR]
Yes opens only when powered. Sorry but do not understand the above.
I asked another fellow to help with your gasket problem.
Sounds like you have the rest figured out, but the door seal is still leaking? You mentioned your seal didn’t come with a white stripe which isn’t entirely unheard of, but what is important is that the part that looks like a leaf, points toward the inside of the tub opening and not toward the outside. It looks like it would go the other way, but it will provide for a poor seal. Take a look at the photo on my blog post [COLOR=#ff5300]Kitchenaid Dishwasher Loose Door Seal[/COLOR] for a photo of your gasket and by clicking on the photo, it will enlarge to the original size for better viewing. If the gasket is correct, you may want to remove the outer door panel and run the unit to get a better view of where the water may be coming from. And finally, make sure the new gasket is fully seated into the channel or the door will tend to flex and give a poor seal. Hope this helps.
Hi Brian, there are two parts to this seal, one half of its width has a flipper while the other half is sort of like an enclosed tube with air. I have had the seal with the flipper in the channel and the air tube (that looks like a leaf if I am looking at one of the two ends of the seal) is towards the door of the dishwasher and therefore what touches and faces the door when closed. From what I can tell, your picture shows the same. I tried switching it around but I can’t seem to wedge the leaf (or the airtube) into the channel.
The manual states that the white line needs to face the outside of the tub. That’s the way you have it in the pic but is the white line supposed to be on the flat side of the seal (or the side where the retaining flipper is?) I doubt your pic can be any clearer but I can’t tell for sure.
The white line is on the retainer portion which has a series of barbs to lock it into the channel. The part that looks like a leaf is the actual gasket and the tip should point toward the middle of the tub opening and not rest up against the side of the tub. This allows the gasket to lay flat against the inside of the door when closed. If the gasket is reversed so the leaf points to the outside, it will not be able to compress and forms a poor seal. If you have already used the adhesive and removed the seal, make sure you pull as much out as you can before adding more and putting the seal back in.
Thanks, I think I have it now…I really needed to get into the channel to clean out the old and cured adhesive. I have cleaned it out as much as I could and reapplied it and re-sealed it the way I had it (matches your description). I really had a hard time closing the door as the seal is very tight it seems now. After about 20 tries, the door is now holding better rather than popping out. I’ll let it cure with the door closed.
Thanks to both of you for your tremendous help. I also hope this helps others.