Brand: Kenmore Elite Model Number: 790-75603702 Main Symptom: oven doesn’t get hot What happens & when: no errors in display, but oven and broiler element do not get hot when control is set to bake or broil
Error Code (if any): N/A
Parts or tests already tried: 316842835
Photos / video link:
Resistor on control board burned up, display showed error F01. Ordered replacement control board part no. 316462835. Removed bad control board and installed replacement. Now there are no error codes, but oven does not get warm when set to Bake or Broil. I can hear the relays on the control board clicking when they should turn on, but both oven elements remain cold to the touch. Double checked that all plugs are connected properly and tight, everything looks good. Is the replacement control board I received bad? What else is there to check?
It is unlikely that two boards will do the same thing. You will need to use a multimeter and ensure you have 240vac into the board, and then check the output to the elements…Also ensure the wiring from the board to the elements is not burned or damaged.
Bake element resistance is 17 ohms, Broil element is 20 ohms. I see 120 VAC going to the control board, not sure where I would check for 240. When the oven is on Bake, I see 120 volts from each side of the element to ground, but 0 volts across the element terminals. Same for the Broil element when the oven is set to Broil.
There is black on one connector which was closest to the resistor that burned up on the old control board, but it’s superficial and did not affect the plastic of the connector or the wiring. All wiring to control board and the elements is in good shape.
Not sure where to find or how to check the temp safety thermostat.
Yes. That procedure is checking whether both 120V legs are reaching the element.
With the element energized, you should read approximately 220–240 VAC across the two element terminals. If you do, the element is receiving the proper supply voltage.
With the range unplugged, disconnect one wire from the element and secure the loose connector so it cannot touch metal or other wiring. Restore power and turn that element on. Measuring the exposed element terminal and the disconnected wire to ground should give approximately 120 VAC.
If you have 120 VAC from each side to ground but 0 VAC (or very low voltage) across the two sides, both points may be on the same leg, indicating a control, relay, or wiring problem.
Use extreme caution: these are live 240V measurements, and the disconnected connector is energized during the test.
With one side of the bake element disconnected, I have 120 VAC from one side to ground, but 0 VAC from the disconnected wire to ground. On the broil element, the disconnected wire has 120 VAC to ground, the wire still connected has 0 VAC to ground. This oven also has a convection element, same symptom there. Traced the wires, and all 3 wires that have 0 VAC are connected together in the wire harness, and connect through the brown wire to a terminal on the control board labeled “L2 OUT” . The other side of the convection, bake, and broil elements go to orange, yellow, and blue wires respectively, which connect to terminals on the control board labeled “CONV”, “BAKE”, AND “BROIL”.
I unplugged those connectors from the control board, and measured voltage directly on the terminal lugs on the control board. The CONV, BAKE, and BROIL lugs each have 120 VAC when the respective element is turned on. The common terminal (L2 OUT) has 0 VAC in every case.
It appears there is a faulty relay or something on this new control board that I just received and installed. Anything else that can be checked?
I measured 240 VAC at the control board, 120 VAC on a connector labeled LX just to the side of the 3 relays for CONV, BAKE, and BROIL. The other leg of 120 VAC comes in on a connector labeled L2 IN. 240 VAC when measured across those two input wires. All wiring to house power checks out good. This model range has a small side oven in addition to the main oven. The side oven is controlled by a separate control knob, not the main control board. The bake and broil elements of the side oven both work correctly, with 240 VAC measured across the 2 sides of the element when that element is turned on with the control knob.
Yes—exactly. You want to measure across the two element terminals while the oven is calling for heat.
Bake ON: measure across the two bake-element terminals.
Broil ON: measure across the two broil-element terminals.
You should see about 240 VAC across the active element.
If you’re getting ~240 VAC across the element but it isn’t heating, suspect the element/open connection. If you’re only getting ~120 VAC or 0 VAC across it, you’re missing one leg and need to trace it back through the board/wiring/limit circuit.
As stated earlier in this thread, in the main oven I measure 120 VAC to one side of the convection, bake, and broil elements with one side disconnected and the respective element set to ON. The other side measures 0 VAC when the appropriate element is ON. I get 0 VAC across each of the 3 elements when they are turned ON and both terminals are connected. In the side oven, I measure 120 VAC to each side of the element when the other side is disconnected, and 240 VAC across the elements when both are connected and the element is set to ON. Both elements in the side oven heat appropriately when selected. None of the 3 elements in the main oven heat at all when selected.
I sure hope the problem is not the range safety thermostat you linked above, I can’t find a part like that in the parts diagrams for my range, and the page you linked says the part is no longer available. Searching for it elsewhere online shows that the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer orderable. Please show me where that part is on my oven, and a source to obtain a replacement if it is bad.
Been out of town for a week, so just now getting back to this. Your response about the location of the safety thermostat was not at all helpful. You said it is on the back of the unit under the back cover, but that’s where everything is. Through process of elimination, I figured out which part is the thermostat. It tests 0 ohms across the terminals with the wires disconnected. Because of its location on the top of the oven at the back, underneath the gas cooktop, it cannot be removed without first disassembling and removing the entire gas cooktop. So I can’t test it directly to see if it opens once it gets to temperature. Any suggestions on how else to test this part without removing it?
In any case, since it is not an open circuit at this point, I would think it could not be preventing the bake, convection, or broil elements from turning on when one of those functions is ordered at the control panel. Furthermore, Frigidaire must not expect this part to fail and need to be replaced, since they discontinued it and the part can no longer be ordered.