Brand: Kenmore
Model Number: 110.66912691
Main Symptom: no heat
What happens & when:
Note: if anything below is incorrect or inaccurate, please correct me – I am here to learn.
I’m looking for help diagnosing a recurring no-heat issue. Here’s the full history and every test I’ve performed so far.
Initial History:
About 2 years ago the dryer stopped heating. A technician diagnosed and replaced a blown thermal fuse. Total cost was about $300. Dryer worked normally after that.
Recent Issue:
A few weeks ago, the dryer stopped producing heat again. The drum would tumble normally, but no heat.
First Round of Testing:
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Verified voltage at the outlet and terminal block:
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L1 to L2: ~245V
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L1 to Neutral: ~122V
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L2 to Neutral: ~122V
Voltage supply confirmed good.
-
-
Tested thermal fuse (continuity mode):
- No continuity → replaced.
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After replacement, dryer worked and produced heat.
Second Failure:
Dryer stopped heating again shortly after. I then did a full diagnostic process:
With dryer unplugged:
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Thermal fuse:
- Continuity present (0–1 ohm)
-
Heating element:
-
Resistance measured between terminals: ~10 ohms (within expected range)
-
Continuity present
-
-
High-limit thermostat:
- Initially had no continuity → replaced along with thermal cutoff (kit)
-
Thermal cutoff:
- Replaced as part of kit
After replacing cutoff + high-limit thermostat:
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Dryer heated successfully
-
Ran 2 loads with normal heat
Third Failure:
Tried running a load on LOW heat for 60 minutes. Clothes came out completely wet and cold.
While dryer was running:
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Opened front panel
-
Heating element (coils) were not glowing
-
Heard motor start and normal click from centrifugal switch
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Heard click when door opened and motor stopped
With dryer unplugged again:
-
Re-tested thermal cutoff:
- No continuity (open) → appears blown again
-
Tested heating element to housing (continuity test):
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Placed one probe on heating element terminal
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Other probe on metal heater housing
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Got continuity (unexpected)
-
From what I understand, there should NOT be continuity between the heating element terminal and the metal housing. This suggests the element may be grounded internally (coil contacting housing).
Airflow:
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Entire vent run cleaned and inspected
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Internal lint buildup cleaned from blower housing to heater box
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Exterior vent airflow feels strong
Current Situation:
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Thermal cutoff appears blown again
-
Heating element shows continuity to housing
-
Dryer tumbles normally but produces no heat
Questions:
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Does continuity between the heating element terminal and housing definitively indicate a grounded element?
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Could a grounded element cause repeated thermal cutoff failure?
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Is replacing the heating element assembly + thermal cutoff the correct next step?
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Is there anything else in this circuit I should test before replacing the element?
Any guidance is appreciated. I’ve tried to be thorough with testing and measurements, but I want to be sure before ordering more parts.
Thanks in advance.