Brand:
Model Number:
Main Symptom:
What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: water feed tube is not frozen
Photos / video link:
You’ll need a multimeter, access to the ice maker in the freezer section, and some tape.
Once you’ve got access to the ice maker and taped down the freezer light switch, you’re gonna check voltage from violet wire to white wire on the harness coming from the appliance that hooks up to the harness going to the ice maker. Should be seeing about 120v AC.
Let me know what you get there and I’ll tell you where to go.
Rory,
I own a multimeter, but I am not an electrician (not even close, for that matter.) So I had my electrician on the phone while I tested the voltage. In the violet and white, the reading was zero. So my electrician had me check the black and white, and the reading was 120. I hope that this helps.
The first picture (far right side) is the harness receptacle on the rear wall of the freezer.
The second picture is the harness from the icemaker that gets plugged into the receptacle
I hope that those pictures help.
Yup, that’s the one, check the black and white wires at the other end where it connects to the ice maker for voltage.
Then, turn off power to the fridge, reconnect the ice maker harness to the wall and disconnect the ice maker end, and take a resistance reading on the brown and white wires.
Let me know what voltage you get at the ice maker and what that resistance value is from brown to white.
Rory,
Unfortunately, we are leaving soon to fly to Florida for two weeks to get out of these sub-zero temperatures. So I don’t have to time to follow the procedures that you outlined, and then to contact my electrician again so that he can walk me through how to test the resistance. I will follow up with you again after we return from Florida.
Thanks,
Jim Anderson
Rory,
We are back from Florida and I am ready to proceed. I need a clarification. To do the first test for voltage, the harness should be plugged into the receptacle on the freezer wall, and the end that normally connects to the icemaker will be disconnected from the icemaker, and that is the end that I will test for voltage on the black and white wires. Is that correct ?
Then, for the next test for resistance, the power should be turned off to the fridge. The harness should be connected to the freezer wall, but not to the icemaker. I should then test the resistance reading on the brown and white wires on the icemaker end.
Is all of that correct ??
Thanks very much.
That is all correct.
Rory, I did the voltage test on the black and white wires, and it didn’t register on the multimeter.
I then did the test for resistance on the brown and white wires, and it didn’t register either.
Where do we go from here?
Yup, that answers our question. You’ll need to replace that harness.
That harness was on the icemaker that I just bought from Appliance Parts Pros.com
If you’re getting voltage at one end but not the other that means a bad harness, may wanna retake that reading and make sure the freezer door switch is taped or held down.
I taped the freezer door light switch down and tested the black and white coming out of the back wall of the freezer and got a reading of 123. I reconnected the icemaker harness into the back of the freezer wall receptacle and tested the black and white on the end that connects to the icemaker and also got a reading of 123.
Good deal, still not getting any reading on the brown and white for resistance or continuity?
Do I need to turn off the power to check that ?
OK, I turned the power off to the fridge and did the teat for resistance and got no reading. I did a test for continuity and got a reading of 228.
Ok, that was your valve circuit and it is reading pretty much what you want it to. As long as you aren’t having any cooling issues in the freezer section, that leaves us with either a blocked water line between the valve and the ice maker or a bad ice maker.
I would allow the freezer to get back to temperature over a 12 hour period and then check the temperature by sandwiching a thermometer between items for a few minutes and making sure the temperature is reading 5° +/- the set temperature for that section. Also take the water line loose from the ice maker side of the water valve, that’ll be the one with the brown and white wires, and blow through it to make sure it is clear.
If the temperature in the freezer is good and the water line is clear then you got a bad ice maker out of the box. This isn’t super common but it does happen. If this is the case please contact our customer service team @ 1-877-477-7278.
Rory,
I let the freezer temperature stabilize overnight and opened it this morning and removed a thermostat that I had placed in it before closing it. It read zero degrees, which is exactly what the freezer is set on. So no apparent cooling issue in the freezer section.
However, I didn’t understand the next instruction about taking the water line loose from the icemaker side. Below is the picture of the water feed tube that enters through the back wall of the freezer and the grey water receptacle on the end of the icemaker that will be just below the water feed tube once installed. Could you post a picture of the water line that you are referring to above on the icemaker side of the water valve, with the brown and white wires ?
Thanks very much.
I’m talking about disconnecting the ice maker water line from the water valve and blowing through it from that end to make sure it is clear.