Don’t worry, we’ll get this eventually. I realize the drip repair wouldn’t cause this problem, but my removing the ice maker, removing the stripper, and replacing both of them could have jostled something inadvertantly. After all the unit is 13 years old. The more you teach me about the cycle the closer I’ll get to fixing it. Now I know that the motor should only turn once in the cycle, so I’ll look to see why it is going around four times before it stops. If I can figure that out then I can most likely set the water fill timer back to where it was and we’ll be good to go. Don’t loose patience. We wen’t from no ice to full ice by replacing the spring. Trying to stop the drip has given us a minor setback that will require some more thought. I really appreciate your help.
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]It was late last night when I replied last time so let me explain how this icemaker works as best as I can. Note that I don’t have a wiring diagram or manual so I am strictly going by memory so I hope I am accurate as possible. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]There are three switches inside the icemaker; one for the water valve, which is attached to that adjustment screw, one for that wire with the spring which is near that spring and one that cuts the motor on to cycle which is the other one near the cam.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]When the icemaker gets cold enough the thermostat trips and by-passes the motor switch which will start the motor provided the wire switch is tripped (wire has got to be completely down). Once the motor starts it will push all the ice in the ice molds out. The heater does come on to help this process. At the end of the cycle the water valve switch will trip (how long it stays tripped depends on the adjustment screw). Then the cam lets off the motor switch and cuts the motor off. The motor shouldn’t come back on until the thermostat trips again. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If the motor switch is stuck the motor will continue to turn. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If the thermostat is stuck the motor will continue to turn. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If the cam is not allowing the motor switch to turn off the motor will continue to run.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I wish I had another picture to help but I tear these icemakers apart when I get my hands on them for parts. The other picture I took a while back for someone else that icemaker has long since be tore apart for parts. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I hope this helps!! [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Refrigerator repair guide
Everything you’ve sent helped.
I am a retired marine engineer, so I have experience in electrical/mechanical operations. I do have a schematic that is inside the module cover. Unfortunately it is not printed, just made out of molded plastic, the same color of the cover so it’s very difficult to read. With your help and a magnifying glass I am able to see the circuit.
I have run the unit during the day when I can watch it, don’t want to have to clean up water all the time. The unit was acting a little erratic. None of the components have failed completely. The cam is intact, the water, hold and feeler arm switches do function, however, certainly one of them has been hanging up a bit since this repair began.
I have observed the gear that turns the ejector.Each full turn of the gear is what I refer to as a cycle. Yesterday and the day before the unit would cycle anywhere from 3,4, or even once 5 times before the motor would shut down. Of course when it cycled 4 or 5 times the water fill valve would keep admitting water, thus the overflow. I turned the water adjusting screw two complete turns in to reduce the amount of water for each cycle. This stopped the overflow. Continuing to observe the operation I have increased the water flow 1/2 turn.I’ve done this twice so far. The unit started cycling 3 times before shutting down, so still no overflow, but the cubes were smaller than desired (of course). Today I have observed three operations and each time it is cycling twice and shutting down. I believe the unit must cycle at least twice, as opposed to once, because one cycle only gets the cubes out of the mold and sitting on top of the ice maker. It’s the second cycle that actually dumps the ice from the top of the unit into the bin. I am still one full turn from where the ice cube size adjustment was when I started. If the unit continues to cycle two revolutions per operation I believe I’ll be able to increase the cube size back to normal.
Combining everything you have told me, looking at the schematic, and my own experience, it is my belief that the culprit has been the (motor) hold switch. I believe it was hanging up, keeping the motor turning even though the thermostat switch has opened. I feel it was the hold switch as opposed to the thermostat because I believe the heater element has shut down, which the thermostat opening would also cause.
So, like I said before we will get this. Every day has brought more progress. And, by the way, even with all that watercoming in, the silicone seal has worked great. No drip down the back that caused icecycles and eventually caused the auger to bind up due to the accumulation of ice.
My continued thanks for your help and perseverence. I know that all this work is for my ice maker, not yours, but I also know as an engineer, there is a certain amount of professional pride in getting it done that drives us.
I’ll keep you posted on the progress.
About the two cycles as opposed to one. I am certainly willing to accept that one cycle per operation is the correct amount. I guess, since I’ve never really paid any attention to the ice maker before, it is very possible that the cubes should sit on top of the unit until the next operation begins.
I will defer to your experience in this matter. Certainly both are a possibility, depending upon how fast the heater that melts the ice a little bit for ejection, raises the temperature that the thermostat senses. I know you said before one cycle is correct, but please confirm that for me.
P.S. just dropped another batch. I get up to watch the operation once I hear the ice dropping into the bin, (which is the start of the 2nd cycle). I have increased another 1/2 turn on the adjustment screw, still no overflow.
Well, I’m pleased to tell you that for the last two hours I have been making ice with the adjustment screw back to where it was originally. My unit makes 2 cycles, one to push the ice out of the tray and on the second one the ice drops into the bins and stops at the end of that cycle. No overflow, no dripping, just good clean ice. I’m really happy we combined to extend the life of this 12 year old ice maker. Thanks again!
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I hate to go back on what I said but one detail I said before was wrong. I found an icemaker that was still intact (I haven’t tore down for parts). [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The icemaker will sometimes cycle twice (make two full turns) but it absolutely will not run water but once if operating correctly.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Also I am sure that you are correct about the motor hold switch sticking. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Lets hope it is repaired now!!![/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Well, it’s been going strong for 24 hours now. Bin is full of ice. No overflow and not even a drip a the back of the unit near the first tray. The operation was a success!
My unit seems to always make two cycles, the first takes the ice from the mold and the second deposits it into the bin. I only get the water valve opening at the end of the second cycle to refill the tray. Pleae don’t ask me to explain why no water comes in after the first cycle ends, because it staggers the imagination. According to the schematic the water switch is basically staight across the line and the cam activates it. But somehow it’s all working nicely.
As for the motor hold switch sticking, I may have caused that myself when I put the spring for the feeler arm in. Not thinking, I just kind of shoved the wires back in there, like you would in a junction box, and screwed it back together. I think the wires for the TCO may have been interfering with the hold switch/cam operation. Once I opened that back up and carefully put the wires back in, the unit went to two cycles and has been that way ever since. That in itself is more good news to me because the erratic operation of the hold switch may have been caused by my error as opposed to the switch having internal problems, which as you know, never gets better.
All in all I’m pleased we kept this old bugger alive. I bet you are too. Thanks for all your help.
I removed ice machine and washed out stuck ice, occasionally my ice maker cannot remove the ice from the tray. I realized that I had plugged in the ice machine after removing the stuck ice and realized I had plugged in the machine with the bar up. There after, after dropping the ice into the bin the maker would shut off whether or not the bin was filled or not. Pulled the ice maker, removed the ice, MADE SURE THE SENSOR BAR WAS DOWN AND PLUGGED IT IN and it was fixed. Also a gretat idea to make sure the tray is level as it will heat evenly to help in ice removal. Hope I have helped.