If the LED is flashing while the flapper is closed, the beam is not blocked and the door light switch is not pushed in, then the problem is a bad optics. The solution is to replace both optic boards.
If the LED is flashing while the flapper is closed, the beam is not blocked and the door light switch is not pushed in, then the problem is a bad optics. The solution is to replace both optic boards.
I have Kitchenaid model KSCK25FVMS01. Icemaker was working intermittently now not at all. Water dispenser works, new filter. LED flashes twice with door open. Twice with beam flapper closed. LED is out with flapper closed and door switch pushed in simulating door closed. From previous threads this appears to be NOT normal. Am I correct in this conclusion? What is my next step. Thanks!
Read through this thread and have tried all the fixes with no luck. Icemaker is not making ice. Jumped all combos but get no reaction, line tested L and N for 120V ac (checks good) - new motor I purchased from you last year thinking that was the problem - didn’t fix it and had given up. Troubleshooting again today to see if there is something I overlooked, but think I’ve tried everything except replacing valve. Any other suggestions before I go to that step?
Read through this thread and have tried all the fixes with no luck. Icemaker is not making ice. Jumped all combos but get no reaction, line tested L and N for 120V ac (checks good) - new motor I purchased from you last year thinking that was the problem - didn’t fix it and had given up. Troubleshooting again today to see if there is something I overlooked, but think I’ve tried everything except replacing valve. Any other suggestions before I go to that step?
Model KSRA25FKSS00
Thanks[/quote]
Did you check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for ice inside?
Did you swap the wires between the water inlet valve solenoids and check for water inside the ice maker after pressing the water dispenser lever?
If you did both tests and the results were negative, replace the water inlet valve.
Gene, thanks for all of your info on this thread. I’m pretty confident what my next steps are now. I just wanted to confirm the information on the test points on the Control Module. My wiring diagram does not show them and the only reference I saw on this thread was on 07-01-2011 and it didn’t clearly lay things out. Model is KSRG22FKSS15. The troubleshooting was a bit frustrating because the trouble changed a couple of times.
Please confirm or correct:
L&N - 120V input. Powers the module. The Emitter and Receiver must be working for the power to be there. The black wire on the ice maker is a fusible link which could also be the problem.
H&T - If 120V is present, shorting H&T will bypass the bi-metal strip and the Control Module motor will run initiating a harvest cycle.
L&V - Shorting will dispense water.
M&N - ???
H&N - Shorting powers the heater to the mold releasing the ice.
Thanks again Gene. From here I can actually see the United States but as you don’t ship here I’m going to have to satisfied with your assistance and paying double the price for the parts locally.
Sorry, I am going to be replacing the Emitter/Receiver kit.
When it first quit working the fingers on the ejector were sticking straight up. It had locked up in mid-harvest cycle. I took out the ice maker and cleaned out the ice, took out the Emitter and Receiver and cleaned off the lamp and lens. Put everything back together and it started working. Went well for two cycles then quit again. Now I’m just getting the two flashes repeating and no 120 to the ice maker harness. Going by what I’ve been able to figure out from your recommendations the first step will be to replace the kit. Can you tell me what shorting M&N does, if anything. I’m making notes in the manual for next time.
I am so confused. My KSCS25inss00 is reading 45Vac across L&N. When i close my emitter flapper the light still blinks 2x per second and when i jump the water test nothing happens… I recently put a new water solenoid in and tested all the lines and had water working in from both sides but nothing in the freezer. There is no ice and i need to get this thing working.. Please help???
So i replaced the optics, and i retested and the LED is working when i close the flapper and now im only reading 85Vac. When i short the leads to get water out there is nothing. Cant even here the solenoid engage.
I think im going to replace the whole ice maker now. I already did the optics and the water solenoids.
My IM makes plenty of ice and the water dispenses, but it will not dispense ice thru the door. The flapper door opens, but the auger motor does not turn.
The light flashes twice with the side flap released and is solid red when I manually depress the flap.
Where would you recommend I start troubleshooting?
My IM makes plenty of ice and the water dispenses, but it will not dispense ice thru the door. The flapper door opens, but the auger motor does not turn.
The light flashes twice with the side flap released and is solid red when I manually depress the flap.
Where would you recommend I start troubleshooting?
Thanks![/quote]
Check the IDI auger motor as described in the attached file.
Woke up this morning and my Refrigerator and Freezer are not cooling. They are both around 47 Degrees F. When I open the freezer door, the red light blinks twice then twice then twice. Please help!!
It sounds normal. fans are running, lights are on, everything as expected. We recently had a power surge which popped the majority of our breakers. This is likely what caused the issue.