Please make sure to click on General above and select the correct appliance type first.
Brand: Kitchenaid
Model Number: KFIV29PCMS03
Main Symptom: No water
What happens & when:
Error Code (if any): no codes
Parts or tests already tried: I replaced the control board because compressor kept running, front display panel stayed light and no water or ice. It was just running funky.
Photos / video link:
Did this problem start before or after you replaced the control board? Also, after replacing the board, did it resolve the issue you were having with the user interface?
The easiest way to test the water valves is through the refrigerator’s built-in Service Diagnostics.
To enter Service Diagnostics:
- Make sure the refrigerator is not in Lockout mode.
- Press and hold SW1 and SW2 together for about 3 seconds.
- Release both buttons when you hear the chime.
- The display should show 01, indicating you’re in Step 1 of the diagnostic routine.
To exit Service Diagnostics:
- Press SW1 and SW2 together again for 3 seconds, or
- Unplug the refrigerator, or
- Wait about 20 minutes and it will exit automatically.
Service Test 45 – Ice Maker Water Fill
Before running this test: Run Service Test 57 (Ice Maker Harvest) first to eject any ice from the mold.
- Navigate to Test 45.
- After a 3-second delay, the display will show the current fill status.
- Press SW3 to start the fill.
- Each press of SW3 toggles the valve:
- 02 = Off
- 03 = On
- 04 = Paused
Service Test 46 – Water Dispenser Test
- Navigate to Test 46.
- Press the water dispenser pad.
- The display will show:
- 00 = Water Valve Off
- 01 = Water Valve On
If you run either test and no water comes out, disconnect the water tubes from the outlet side of the valve(s) and repeat the test. This will tell us whether the valve is actually allowing water to pass.
- If the valve buzzes but no water comes through: Check for a kinked water line, a clogged house supply, or a restriction in the water supply. Flushing the supply line can also help.
- If the valve does not buzz at all: Use a multimeter to check for approximately 120 VAC at the valve terminals while the test is commanding the valve on. If voltage is present but the valve doesn’t open, the valve has failed. If there is no voltage, we’ll need to trace the problem back through the wiring or control board.
I’ve also attached the tech sheet for reference.
KFIV29PCMS03 techsheet-w10591246-reva.pdf (287.8 KB)