Checking various dryer components for continuity allows you to identify a failed component. For example, you can test your dryer heating element, thermal fuse, flame sensor, thermostats, door switches, and other dryer parts.
The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter
My Amana dryer stops and I have gone through all of the troubleshooting of the tumbler. When I turn the blower motor by hand, the tumbler moves pretty freely. I am down to the thermostat which reads 0 ohms when I measure across the leads. Is this correct or should it have some resistance. The heater thermostat reads 2300 ohms across its leads. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance for your help.
The thermal fuse is #4 on the break down diagram. You have to check it for continuity and replace if it’s open.
If the thermal fuse is open then it has to be replaced together with the high limit thermostat (#6 on the same diagram) even if this thermostat passed the continuity test.
Here are the break down diagrams and the parts list for the Amana dryer Model LE4407L
If the dryer does not do anything then did you check the power outlet for the proper voltage? It suppose to be 240 VAC between the two hot outlets and 120VAC between each of them and ground.
Gene.
P.S. It has nothing to do with the moister sensor.
All of my thermistats and sensors test out OK, but the blower motor still gets turned off within a minute of starting. I am trying to tell if the motor itself is bad or if it is being shut off. The motor was full of lint and I have blown it out with an air compressor. Before spending the money on a new motor, I would like to hook it up to power directly. Do you have a diagram of the terminal wiring?
The voltage at the outlet is OK. The motor runs for a short time and then is shut off. I would like to wire the motor directly to a power cord to make sure it is not being shut off by the timer. Do you have a wiring schematic?
Thanks
[QUOTE=wavesys;63805]…The motor was full of lint and I have blown it out with an air compressor…[/QUOTE]
This is the most common cause for a motor to get bad due to overheating. In addition if you are not able to restart the dryer right after it stopped and/or it makes an unusual (humming) noise at time of start up then it proves that the motor has gone bad.
Unfortunately, I do not have the wiring diagram, but you probably can find it inside the control panel.
i have a whirlpool model tedx640pq0 electric dryer and it will only heat for about 2 min and then the heating element turns off. if i let the dryer sit for about an hour to completely cool down and turn it back on the process repeats. i think its one of the thermostats but i have no way to test them. is there a certain one that would cause this to happen? there is a cycling, high limit, and a thermal cut off shown on the diagram of my dryer
i’ve cleaned the whole dryer as you have described and it still is doing the same thing. i ment that i do not have any sort of tester to see if the thermostats are working properly. just dont know which of the thermostats would cause the problem im having
Unrelated note: I’m testing an igniter for Kenmore gas dryer (model 110.73932101) with digital multimeter and it reads 00.0 after going through a few other numbers (set at 20K ohms). Does that mean the ignite is good/bad or sth else? thanks.