Brand: GE Model Number: GDF610pmJ2ES Main Symptom: Water not coming What happens & when: Last week the dishwasher leaked from the sump pump which I removed and saw there was a tear in the rubber tub where the orang float is. I ordered a new sump pum part # 504 and I installed it. It doesn’t leak now but it also doesn’t run correctly, it sounds like water is not coming into the dishwasher. The dishwasher has power and it just sounds like it is straining and trying to run.
Originally, I had turned off the water valve under the sink and at first I forgot to turn it back on after I re-attached the new part 504. I eventually remembered to opened the water valve under the sink (photo attached, circled) but the same problem occurs.
Also, There was water sitting in the dishwasher while I was turning it over, and the water would come out and drain on the kitchen floor.
This is my first time trying to repair a dishwasher. Thank you -Thomas
, but now the water valve is open. I open the white ridged plastic pipe at the base of the garbage disposal and where it connects to the dw but didn’t see any clog (I could try removing the whole and run water throught to check for a clog?).
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Based on everything you’ve described, I think there are a couple of things to check before assuming the new sump assembly is defective.
The fact that the dishwasher leaked from the old sump, you replaced it, and now it no longer leaks but sounds like it’s “straining” makes me wonder if it actually isn’t filling with water, or if it’s trying to run the wash motor without enough water.
Here’s the order I’d check things:
Verify the dishwasher is actually filling with water.
Start a normal cycle.
After you hear it should have filled (about 1–2 minutes), open the door.
There should be roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water covering the bottom of the tub, just below the heating element.
If the tub is dry, it’s definitely not filling.
Confirm the water supply is reaching the dishwasher.
Make sure the shutoff valve under the sink is fully open.
If possible, disconnect the dishwasher supply line from the inlet valve (turn the water off first) and briefly crack the valve open into a bucket. You should get a strong stream of water. This verifies the plumbing isn’t blocked.
Check the float inside the tub.
Lift the float up and let it drop.
It should move freely and click the float switch.
If it’s stuck in the raised position, the control thinks the dishwasher is already full and will never energize the fill valve.
Inspect the wiring on the new sump assembly.
Since the dishwasher was tipped over during the repair, make sure every connector is fully seated.
Verify no wires were pinched between the sump and the tub.
Test for voltage at the water inlet valve.
Live Power Warning: This test is performed with live 120 VAC. Use extreme caution to avoid electric shock. If you’re not comfortable working around live voltage, it’s best to skip this test.
If you’d like to know more about using a multimeter safely, we’ve put together a comprehensive tutorial—check out the link in the description.
Start a cycle and measure across the two terminals on the water inlet valve during the fill portion.
120 VAC present: The control is calling for water, so if no water enters, the inlet valve is likely faulty or blocked with debris.
No voltage: The issue is elsewhere (float switch, wiring, door latch, or main control).
Check the flood switch (if equipped).
Some GE models have a flood sensor in the base. If water got into the base while the dishwasher was tipped over, the dishwasher may think it’s flooded.
Remove the toe kick and look for standing water in the base. If present, dry it completely and try again.
One question:
When you start a cycle, do you hear water entering for a few seconds before the straining noise starts, or does the straining begin immediately with no sound of water filling at all?
That answer will help narrow down whether we’re dealing with a fill problem, a circulation pump issue, or something related to the installation of the new sump assembly.
Live Power Warning: This test is performed with live 120 VAC. Use extreme caution to avoid electric shock. If you’re not comfortable working around live voltage, it’s best to skip this test.