I have a GE GSD 2030. My dishes in the upper rack were not getting properly cleaned (sandy residue). Ultimately, I thought I had the problem fixed after I:
manually spun the motor wheel,
cleaned out the drain (removed the grate and the second piece within), disassembled, reassembled and cleaned the float, and
manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.
However, now the dishwasher will not drain, at all, which is a new symptom. The solanoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place. HELP!!!
Note: Your model number is short, tthe above parts are for a GSD2030F02WW. Hopefully is will be close to yours. To ensure you get the correct parts you will need the last digits from your unit.
[COLOR=Blue]manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.
The solenoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place[/COLOR]
The solenoid springs will not give a no drain symptom. They are there to return the solenoid to the wash position.
Does the solenoid activate during a drain?
Is the motor running during drain?
The way it should work is that during drain the solenoid is activated for about 10 seconds, this pulls it’s plunger down and switches the flapper valve to the drain position. The water pressure then holds the flapper valve in the drain position until the unit is empty (no water pressure on it), the springs then pull the plunger up and the flapper is now at the wash position.
Note that if the solenoid gets power for too long (re: timer contacts sticking), it will overheat.
Check that the solenoid has continuity.
If yes
Check that it is getting power when it should.
I do not believe that the motor runs during a drain, but can not tell, as I do not know exactly when the drain occurs. My assumption is that the drain should occur right before the dry cycle.
I also am not sure, but do not believe that the solanoid is activated. I sat with a flashlight watching the solanoid during the end of the rinse/beginning of the dry cycle and it did not move.
Further, upon additional consideration, I think what may have occurred is that when I was initially attempting to get the water to drain, I pulled off the grate in the back and pulled out the plastic piece. I also pulled on the rubber piece and for a moment broke the seal. I assume that water entered the pump mechanism in that way.
The question now is whether I attempt to replace the pump, or simply buy a new dishwasher. Further, if the motor and the pump require replacement, I assume that the cost of the new motor is more than the dishwasher (which is ten years old) is worth.
[COLOR=Blue]I do not believe that the motor runs during a drain, but can not tell, as I do not know exactly when the drain occurs. My assumption is that the drain should occur right before the dry cycle.[/COLOR]
Yes, it should. It should also drain between cycles re: before the second wash if using a 2 wash cycle (pots & pans) also before a rinse cycle and sometimes a couple times during a rinse.
On many units the motor runs continuously during wash and drain.
[COLOR=Blue]I also am not sure, but do not believe that the solanoid is activated. I sat with a flashlight watching the solanoid during the end of the rinse/beginning of the dry cycle and it did not move.[/COLOR]
Best way to check is with a meter. Remove power from the unit, remove the wires from the solenoid and check it with a meter, should be around 50 ohms. If open (infinite ohms) replace the solenoid. If OK plug it back in and run a cycle while checking across the solenoid for power to see if it gets 120 volts AC when it should. If it does not you may have a broken wire between the timer and the solenoid or your timer is toast.
[COLOR=Blue]I think what may have occurred is that when I was initially attempting to get the water to drain, I pulled off the grate in the back and pulled out the plastic piece. I also pulled on the rubber piece and for a moment broke the seal. I assume that water entered the pump mechanism in that way. [/COLOR]
If the solenoid does not pull down this will make no difference. The unit will not drain without the flapper valve in the drain position. The piston & nut usually lets it drain some but not fully so you end up with water in the tub but some does go down the drain.
[COLOR=Blue]The question now is whether I attempt to replace the pump, or simply buy a new dishwasher. [/COLOR]
I doubt it is your pump unless it is not running at all.
[COLOR=Blue]So since the dishwasher runs, and washes dishes, but does not drain, you think that it may either be a broken wire or a bad solanoid?[/COLOR]
Yes. Also could be the timer
[COLOR=Blue]Should I manually try to pull the solanoid down at some point while the machine is operating to see if I can get it to drain?[/COLOR]
I would give it a try.
I did try to pull the solanoid down the first night, and water started to leak onto the floor. I assumed that I was doing it at the wrong time. Should I try during the dry cycle?
I will test with a multimeter tonight. It appears based on what I read, that if the solanoid is bad, I can replace it for a bout 30-40 bucks. I assume that I am competent to do this job, I am fairly handy and can do simple plumbing and electrical work (install faucets, run wiring and install lights/fans, etc.)
[COLOR=Blue]I did try to pull the solanoid down the first night, and water started to leak onto the floor. I assumed that I was doing it at the wrong time. Should I try during the dry cycle?[/COLOR]
This concerns me as it should never leak onto the floor but I guess we will see.
[COLOR=Blue]I assume that I am competent to do this job[/COLOR]
If I can do it, you can do it.
Tonight I tested the solenoid with a “bulb tester” not a multimeter. It appears that there was no continuity (the light did not come on).
I did manage to unplug the wires from the terminal and not note which was hooked onto which side of the terminal. Any advice for identifying which wire to which terminal if I purchase a new solenoid?
[COLOR=Blue]At this point would you recommend a new solenoid?[/COLOR]
Yes if it is an open it needs replacing.
Never used a “bulb tester” so am not sure how it works.
You may want to get the solenoid checked with a meter just to be sure.
It does not matter which wire goes to which connector on the solenoid.
Pretty simple, two AA’s and a bulb, in between an alligator clip and a pin. Alligator clip goes to one pole, pin goes to the other, if the circuit is closed, a light goes on. (For instance if you touch the pin to the alligator clip, bulb goes on). With the solenoid, no light went on when attaching to each pole.
I am not sure if the bulb would light up or not.
Since GE likes to keep tech info hush hush I do not know the resistance of the solenoid’s winding.
If it is relatively high then enough current will not flow through it to light the bulb.
I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
So I purchased the multimeter today. It appears that there is no resistance at 200 ohms. The next highest setting is 2k. Should I test there?
Also, in order to manually determine if the solenoid is the problem, will I need to hold the arm down for ten seconds? If so, can I do this when the dishwasher tub is full, but there is no power? If holding the arm down does not cause a drain does that indicate that the solenoid is not the problem?
I am simply trying to hone in on the problem, so I don’t spend $40 on a solenoid and then have to buy a new dishwashwer after this does not solve the problem.
If you recall I indicated that I held the arm down during a cycle at one point, and water started to leak to the floor. When I was doing my initial, ignorant diagnosis, I pulled off the wash arm and prodded down that hold with a screw driver. Now it appears that the rubber piece at the bottom is off to the side, which I believe based on further review is where it belongs. But, is it possible I disturbed something which would cause the leak on the floor?
Last thing, if I choose to make the repair, will I be able to make the replacement just by accessing through the kickplate, without pulling the whole dishwasher?
[COLOR=Blue]So I purchased the multimeter today. It appears that there is no resistance at 200 ohms. The next highest setting is 2k. Should I test there? [/COLOR]
Yes, When looking for continuity of a part I always try a couple scales higher that where I expect the reading to fall, just to make sure it is a true open.
[COLOR=Blue]Also, in order to manually determine if the solenoid is the problem, will I need to hold the arm down for ten seconds? If so, can I do this when the dishwasher tub is full, but there is no power?[/COLOR]
With water in the tub, door not latched, put the timer to somewhere in the cycle where the pump will run. Hold the solenoid down then close the door. The ten seconds really does not matter as once the water hits the flapper valve it should hold it in the drain position.
[COLOR=Blue]If holding the arm down does not cause a drain does that indicate that the solenoid is not the problem?[/COLOR]
Yes or you may have 2 problems.
[COLOR=Blue]I am simply trying to hone in on the problem, so I don’t spend $40 on a solenoid and then have to buy a new dishwashwer after this does not solve the problem.[/COLOR]
I completely understand. I do not replace parts unless I know they are blown or the odds are high that they are blown. If I want to throw money [COLOR=Blue]away there are better things than then appliance parts.
If you recall I indicated that I held the arm down during a cycle at one point, and water started to leak to the floor. When I was doing my initial, ignorant diagnosis, I pulled off the wash arm and prodded down that hold with a screw driver. Now it appears that the rubber piece at the bottom is off to the side, which I believe based on further review is where it belongs. But, is it possible I disturbed something which would cause the leak on the floor?[/COLOR]
Sorry do not understand the above. I would try to get it back to where it was. Also could be it will not make a difference
[COLOR=Blue]Last thing, if I choose to make the repair, will I be able to make the replacement just by accessing through the kickplate, without pulling the whole dishwasher?[/COLOR]
Yes.
[COLOR=blue]With water in the tub, door not latched, put the timer to somewhere in the cycle where the pump will run. Hold the solenoid down then close the door. The ten seconds really does not matter as once the water hits the flapper valve it should hold it in the drain position.
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[COLOR=black]Would that timer position be just before the rinse and just before the dry, it’s not marked but that seems where it would be.[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]Also, when I close the door, do I latch it at that time?[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]And to be sure, activating the solenoid is pulling the arm down correct?[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]Finally, power is on to the machine?[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]Thanks,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]Would that timer position be just before the rinse and just before the dry, it’s not marked but that seems where it would be.[/COLOR]
I would put it mid wash. You are faking a drain so it will drain even if it is in a wash cycle.
[COLOR=Blue]Also, when I close the door, do I latch it at that time?[/COLOR]
Yes. You have to get the motor running.
[COLOR=Blue]And to be sure, activating the solenoid is pulling the arm down correct?[/COLOR]
Yes. Up is wash, down is drain.
[COLOR=Blue]Finally, power is on to the machine?[/COLOR]
Yes. Just watch that you do not touch any wires.
SO I manually engaged the Solenoid when the tub was full. The water did in fact drain, however, some water did leak. It looked like it came from the arm lever.
When this initially happended (the water in the tub) I took off the sump cover and the sump cap and pulled the sump inlet aside (pulled the plastic aside) which allowed water to escape, but not down the drain tube. Is it possible that water is what is now leaking? In other words, could it have gotten trapped somewhere?
It looked like it came from the arm lever.
If you mean the flapper arm lever seal then it is replaceable. Get both the seal and the push on nut (Items 415 and 417 in Section 3 of the parts)
[COLOR=Blue]When this initially happended (the water in the tub) I took off the sump cover and the sump cap and pulled the sump inlet aside (pulled the plastic aside) which allowed water to escape,[/COLOR]
Sorry I do not understand the above.
Use a small mirror and a flashlight to find the leak, if you are unsure where it is coming from.
SO other than the two screws how do you remove the solenoid. The white piece that actually rotates and forces the arm up and down is attached to something and appears to need to be released, and I can’t seem to figure that out. Help?
So the leak is coming from the drain valve shaft seal. I replaced the seal, and it is still dripping ever so slightly. I haven’t put the push nut back on, nor reinstalled the new solenoid. Thoughts?