GE will not send water to icemeaker

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
1

Brand: GE
Model Number: GFE24JGKNFWW
Main Symptom: No water/signal
What happens & when: no water to icemeaker during diagnostic test

Error Code (if any): none
Parts or tests already tried: new OEM icemaker, new dual water valve
Photos / video link:

I’m at wits end with this one. The fridge was moved to our new house and works except icemaker not getting water. This model has bottom freezer and ice maker in upper left (French) door. I have checked the water line (blew through it to verify clear), replaced filter. I purchased the Technical Service guide for this unit and have done some tests. I have tried measuring at main board and at icemaker electrical connector and am not getting the ‘open water valves’ signal when running icemaker diagnostic (turn off 15 sec, 3 times on the paddle). The original and new icemaker run through the diagnostic successfully except no water. One question I have is if/when during the diagnostic should the water valves signal appear? I’ve not been able to find any specific statement that water valves should open and when during this test anywhere.
Other info: water dispenser works fine, so I know the inlet (isolation) valve is functioning. I have tested icemaker by pouring in water. Cubes are made and harvested. I would expect somehow the icemaker ‘knows’ when cubes are harvested, it’s time to call for more water, but this doesn’t happen. I ran the diagnostic on thermistors, all good.

I guess it’s possible my new icemaker or dual valve is defective, but both are OEM. I see no sign of problems on the main board, and from what I’ve read, it would be pretty rare for this problem to be caused by main board. Any ideas?
I was going to try applying 120 V to dual valve (to icemaker), but I would have to turn on isolation valve at same time. A bit tricky.

2

That signal should be sent to the main control board towards the end of the test cycle, after the ice maker fingers have stopped moving. If you’re never getting that signal you either have a bad ice maker out of the box or the wiring between the ice maker and the control board is damaged.

This ice maker test should activate the valves at the end to refill the ice maker.

3

Thank you, Rory. Should it matter if refrig door is open (or icemaker door) when doing the test? I just want to be sure.

4

It shouldn’t, this should be designed to run that test with the door open.

5

Hi Rory, you were right! I checked and found the icemaker was generating the 120 V signal at the icemaker connector. I then double checked the connectors on top of the door (outside fridge) and sure enough, one of them wasn’t fully plugged in (D’oh!). Now it works. Thanks very much!