Brand: GE Model Number: GTW725BSN0WS Main Symptom: Lid Lock What happens & when: My washer shows the ‘close lid’ message when it is closed. I replaced the lid lock switch, magnetic tab on the lid and harness with the GE Washer Lid Lock Service Kit (AP7225583 / WH08X37938) from Appliance Parts Pros. Unfortunately, nothing changed after install. I’m still getting the ‘close lid’ message on the screen. When I Ohm the new switch with my multi-meter, I have 100 Ohms across the blue and white wires (two outside wires in the 3-pin connector, lid closed). I watched an AppliancePros video that shows you should have 100 Ohms across the red and blue wires. Mine shows no Ohms when I do that. When I plug in the new 3-pin switch to the control board and use my meter to jump the blue wire to red wire (probing back side of the 3-pin), the lid lock audibly engages. Can anyone tell me from this if the switch is working and wired as it should be, or is something beyond the switch the problem like the control board? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: GE Washer Lid Lock Service Kit (AP7225583 / WH08X37938)
Photos / video link:
Your measurements actually point away from the new lid-lock assembly and toward the control/wiring side, especially because the lock physically engages when you back-probe/jump the appropriate circuit.
GE confirms WH08X37938 is the correct replacement service kit for GTW725BSN0WS; it supersedes the original lock/strike components used on this model.
One important issue: I would not condemn the new lock based on the AppliancePartsPros video’s wire colors alone. WH08X37938 is an updated service kit, and wire position/function is more meaningful than assuming the colors shown in a video apply exactly to this particular model/revision.
Your strongest clue is this:
Lid closed → about 100 Ω between blue and white
Blue-to-red → open
Back-probing/jumping blue-to-red at the board → lock audibly engages
If jumping at the board causes the mechanism to lock, that tells us the lock actuator itself is capable of operating and the wiring path to it is at least substantially intact. It does not, however, prove that all of the lid-position feedback circuitry is good.
What I would check next
1. Verify the lid-closed signal changes.
Unplug the washer. Disconnect the lid-lock harness from the control and measure the switch through the harness while physically opening and closing the lid.
You’re looking for a definite change between lid open and lid closed, rather than concentrating solely on whether a particular pair measures exactly 100 Ω.
If your ~100 Ω reading between blue/white appears only with the lid closed and disappears/open-circuits when the lid is opened, that’s strong evidence that the new assembly is detecting the lid.
If blue/white stays ~100 Ω regardless of lid position, then I’d look closely at the striker/magnet alignment or the replacement assembly.
2. Check the connector pins extremely closely.
This is particularly important after installing the service kit. Look at both ends for:
backed-out terminals
bent pins
a terminal not fully seated in the connector
poor crimp/contact
damaged wire near the connector
incorrect adapter/harness connection
Do a continuity check from the lid-lock connector all the way to the corresponding control-board connector, not merely across the new lock.
3. If the lid-open/lid-closed signal reaches the control correctly, the main control becomes the prime suspect.
The key distinction is that the washer isn’t merely failing to lock. It’s displaying “Close Lid” while the lid is already closed.
That means the control apparently isn’t recognizing the lid-closed feedback signal.
If you establish at the control-board connector that:
Lid open = one reading/state Lid closed = clearly different reading/state
but the display continues saying Close Lid, then I’d be comfortable moving suspicion to the main control board/input circuit rather than buying another WH08X37938.
One caution
I would stop jumping the red/blue terminals while the machine is powered. Some GE lid-lock circuits involve line voltage, and accidentally touching the wrong pins can damage the control in addition to presenting a shock hazard. Published GE-family diagnostic information for this lock design includes 120-V testing at the control connector.
So based on what you’ve found so far, I would not buy another lid-lock kit yet. The next useful test is simply:
Does your blue-to-white ~100 Ω reading change to OL/open when you physically open the lid?
If you tell me what you get blue-white and blue-red with the lid OPEN versus CLOSED, I can narrow this down considerably.
Thank you for the help. When the lid is open, I measure 0 Ohms across the same blue and white wires that show 100 Ohms when the lid is closed. It sounds like the switch is working as it should and seeing the lid lock connector. I measure 0 Ohms across red and blue wires when the lid is closed or open.
Update - Control Board was the problem. The washer is back working great. Took about 30 minutes to change the control board out. Very easy job. All you need is a 1/4" nut driver or 1/4" socket on an extension. Since there isn’t a video out there for this control board replacement, for anyone considering doing this, steps are essentially: Remove the console (see AppliancePartsPros videos), remove the smaller control board with the copper coil first (I left all harnesses attached to it. Remove one 1/4" screw and 5" long white retainer clip, then push in two black clips to release the board), disconnect the remaining wiring harnesses to the control board and remove about seven or eight 1/4" screws to free the board up. You will have to pull the knob off the front side at some point to all the control board to come free. Repeat the steps in reverse for reinstall.