Brand: GE
Model Number: WLSR3000G5WW
Main Symptom: No agitation, no spin
What happens & when: Pump works; cycle timer works. No agitation, no spin.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Currently using a “workaround” of soaking in soapy water, hand-wringing.
Try This: Follow these steps to reset a Hydrowave GE washer:
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Unplug the washer for one minute.
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Plug the washer back in and lift and lower the lid six times within a 12-second period.
Note that:
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After plugging the washer in, you have 30 seconds to start lifting and lowering the lid.
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The lid needs to be lifted at least two inches to interrupt the magnetic connection on the lid.
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The lid needs to be completely closed each time.
While it’s an older (somewhat “analog”) model (not a “Hydrowave“) I’ll try the power off/lift lid just for fun to see if it has any effect.
There is a curious issue where the lid no longer has an on/off effect upon the basket (whereas before the agitation/spin failed, it used to engage an instant brake.)
(PS: Thanks for the suggestion!)
A nonresettable 10-amp fuse is wired in the neutral
side of the line. The fuse is wrapped in the motor
harness located along the right side of the cabinet.
If the fuse is open, agitate, spin, and mode shifting
do not occur. Check the fuse connections and wiring
harness.31-9146 GE Washer.pdf (1.8 MB)
31-16577 GE WLSR3000G5WW Washer Mini Manual.pdf (815.4 KB)
31-9146.pdf (59.7 KB)
Those are great tips, thanks! Does that model’s service manual apply to the WLSR3000G5WW? (It wasn’t listed on the cover.)
According to the serial # info, my unit was built in TS (Oct ‘97.)
Service Manual are usually a cross reference of different models composed of the same or similar parts.The Question is what have you done with all that information. The mini manual is the exact manual for your Model.Have you even look at that fuse? The washer is getting old at this point.You must know that all we can do is lead you in a certain direction and you with whatever knowledge you can gain you become the Technician yourself.Tell us what steps you have done!
Understood!! (Totally!) What I’m doing is “waiting for the time to be right” to tackle the (possible no-win) scenario (even tho hoping and praying for the win!)
Even as a retiree (less anxious to tackle challenging projects than before the brain damage) I “slot” projects for “the right time.” For example, today the temperature hit *70°F!* which was perfect for seeding the tomatoes and transplanting the bamboo sprouts. Thursday will be “perfect” for tackling the washer. (Lord help me!!)
I’ll certainly keep you updated on results (you’ve been “sowing the seeds” for a “decent harvest,” so I’ll let you know how things “sprout” / turn out.)
(Checking the fuse will be the second hurdle: Getting it out of the laundry area and into the larger room will be the first challenge.)
70 degrees -2 Here up north.Yeah, I am a old timer I no what you mean my friend.One day at a time. Take care of yourself.
OK, I know, it’s been awhile, but I needed to find, purchase and fix a Radio Shack (clamshell) multimeter (I had one in my younger days. Nostaligic attachment, but to continue:)
The “down time” involved allowed me to review several “how to” videos, which led me to believe that checking the capacitor took/takes precedence over all the other elements.
The “lid switch” is confusing. There’s an electrical hum when set to either wash or spin, regardless of lid being open or shut. Normally, lifting the lid during any cycle would almost instantly stop the basket.
At any rate, I got the capacitor label data: It shows:
CORCOM | 16WGF1 | F4338G (photo from net file, has a different number in the lower right corner:)
As you may notice, there are 5 tabs on the bottom. Keeping the one simply marked “+” at the “6 o’clock” position (towards me) and labeling it as terminal A, the following are in CLOCKWISE order, starting around 7 o’clock:
A=+ (@ 6 o’clock, then)
B=L2
C=U1
D=3U (or U3)
E=N4
The label has a cryptic (electronics) diagram (which is above my skill level.)
Data includes:
R-680 KHOMS
L-2X 2.1 MH
C-.47 UF (X2) SH
(and) -2X 0.001 UF (Y2)
R-680 KHOMS
This capacitor is way more complicated than the 2 and 4 prong units I’ve seen so far in the “how to” videos, so I used the “round robin” method of testing Ohms (Ω) with red lead (+) to green lead (-) such as: A to B, A to C, A to D, A to E, then B to C, B to D, B to E, then C to D, C to E, then D to E.
What I got was zeros except for:
B to D = 670 mΩ,
B to E = 670 mΩ,
C to D = 670 mΩ,
C to E = 670 mΩ,
Now I’m no (current) genius, but I do realize that 670 ≠ 680, but is that a large enough gap to merit ordering a replacement part?
Update: I ordered a (new) (?) replacement capacitor, same model. (CORCOM | 16WGF1 | F4338G) but when I got it, the ohms tested out identically.
I went ahead and rebuilt the unit using the new capacitor (lightly, as I could button it up tighter if it was successful) just in case there may have been some other issue with the original capacitor, and the same result occurred: The unit “hummed” lightly in the spin cycle, but no spin. (A few retests to make sure, no go.)
Now we’re getting down to: transmission? or motor?
The problem is, NONE of the videos I’ve seen are “quite like” this model.
The agitator cap does pull up and off, but there’s no removal bolt beneath. There’s what appears to be a plastic (nearly dome-like) shield. I’m thinking it may be removable, and there may be a nut or bolt beneath it.
<Sigh….> back to the video hunt…. (and the laundromat.)
Finally figured out how to remove the agitator (it’s one with “no clues”): fingers beneath, thumbs atop, turn head to side, and lift ‘till it pops.
Now I figure I’m likely gonna have to remove the tub in order to replace the motor. (The agitator “dogs” are fine.)
What I’d really like is some way to test the continuity of the lid switch without having to bare any wires. Unfortunately, the salmon-colored wire goes one way (down towards the motor) while the yellow with orange stripe runs back to the control panel, so there’s no easy way to test continuity other than baring the wires as offset-locations.
(One small step for a dweeb….)
Update: I did end up having to “bare” two spots on the lid-switch wires (offset from each other to prevent shorting) and wired them to two thin-wire leads, then continuity checked the setup.
By closing contact with the two lead wires, it functions as a “lid closed” switch, and still the unit had no agitation, no spin.
Recap: The capacitor was already replaced (yet the ohms were identical) with a no-go result.
Using a special tool (a very large rectangle of metal with an hexagonal hole that functions as a “wrench”) I was able to remove the LARGE nut that held the bucket in place.
Removed the bucket, then was able to remove the motor.
FORTUNATELY, I found a website that takes in motors (and circuit boards) and repairs them (around $200, ± change) and I’m awaiting the return of the {repaired} motor.
Will let you know the outcome after reinstalling the motor.