Won’t drain,all hoses good, motor turns, can’t tell if pump is bad. If I order the pump online here, it is a kit..do i also need to replace the check valve? Or is that included with the kit sold here?part #AP2616850
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I don’t work for APP so I can’t tell you about the kit but its unlikely (not impossible) that the pump is causing your problem post you model number and I will tell you what to check. Also is it not pumping at all or pumping out partially? Dishwasher Not Draining Repair Guide[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[QUOTE=applianceman;93955][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I don’t work for APP so I can’t tell you about the kit but its unlikely (not impossible) that the pump is causing your problem post you model number and I will tell you what to check. Also is it not pumping at all or pumping out partially? Dishwasher Not Draining Repair Guide[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]
The motor is turning and sounds fine, the water is not pumping out the rince cycle water it looks like. Main drain pipe is clear When I disconnected under the DW nothing like a blockage came out, just left- over water that was being held in the machine that I didn’t get out all the way. Model # GSD3735F01 SERIAL # TD9013468 GE NATULIS Thanks so much!
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]In the back of the inside of your tub you should see a screen, remove it. Once removed you should see a check valve # 556 on your body parts breakdown. Often the rubber in the middle of this check valve will dissolve to the point that it can no longer block water. If this happens the pump will just pump the water back into the tub during pump out. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If that is not your problem the drain solenoid (#497 on the pump-motor parts breakdown) that attaches to the side of the pump could cause this problem as well. Disconnect power from washer then reach under the washer and attempt to press that solenoid down. It should press down easily and then spring back up if not replace it. Note that sometimes the timer will cause this part to go bad so you may have to replace it as well. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]These are the two most likely parts that will cause your problem. Hope this helps! [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[quote=applianceman;94141][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]In the back of the inside of your tub you should see a screen, remove it. Once removed you should see a check valve # 556 on your body parts breakdown. Often the rubber in the middle of this check valve will dissolve to the point that it can no longer block water. If this happens the pump will just pump the water back into the tub during pump out. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If that is not your problem the drain solenoid (#497 on the pump-motor parts breakdown) that attaches to the side of the pump could cause this problem as well. Disconnect power from washer then reach under the washer and attempt to press that solenoid down. It should press down easily and then spring back up if not replace it. Note that sometimes the timer will cause this part to go bad so you may have to replace it as well. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]These are the two most likely parts that will cause your problem. Hope this helps! [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/quote]
The drain solenoid springs back fine
the check valve under the screen ..the rubber was fine I thought and sprung fine. there was a tiny bit of debris in there..one tiny piece in between the springs coil but I mean tiny, smallas a pinhead but hard.
How do I know if the ?pump? that makes the check valve go up and down is working? any other ideas? is the solenoid spring supposed to spring back like “snap back” or just come back up without sticking because it doesn’t “snap back” it just comes back up easily but not like a tightly wound spring…if that makes any sence.
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Before you go any further did you check to see if the drain was stopped up right where it hooks to the sink? This is a common place for a clog. If not remove the drain hose and make sure that’s clear. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The main thing about that check valve is that the rubber plunger should be big enough to stop up the hole in the top. Water pressure causes the plunger to lift up. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The solenoid should just come back up not snap up. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Start the washer and look under the dishwasher in a few minutes the first washer should finish and the solenoid should go down and pump the water out. If this doesn’t happen reach under there (don’t touch any wires) and press the solenoid down just as you did before. When you press the solenoid down the water should pump out.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]While you are checking it pay attention to if the dishwasher sounds like its washing. Do you hear water being pumped inside the washer? If not this could indicate that the pump is bad although I don’t think I have ever seen one of these pumps that just wouldn’t pump strong enough. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
drains clear connections cleardrains to disposel
I hear it during wash cycle water is running in and i believe it washes and drains too otherwise the wash water and the rince water would both be in there causing it to run out and over the door ..right?..when it is in drain rince cycle it runs,water starts to go down when I open door I can see it do this briefly but then the water comes right back up into DW
I’ll try the solenoid test within the hour
and yes the rubber plunger plugs the hole and shows no wear ereally..although it was alittle slimey…not bad tho
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]No it wouldn’t overflow because there is a float that stops the water valve when the water gets too high. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
working fine now.. Dont know why thanks you saved me from insanity! I just wanted to add that thank God there are people like you. You saved me the cost of a new DW or a 250.00 part that I did not need. You do not know how very much I appreciate it, and my husband who works out of state says thank you too. God Bless !!!
Oh seems I have had a leak left ( as you look at the DW),front door gasket baffle area..just below it? still leaks guess that will be next…would that be a door seal or the baffle? There are no suds or soap used in that last wash. or is the water level too high?, is the door locking tight enough?
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]You’re very welcome!![/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Because it was not pumping out you might want to use it a few times to see if it still leaks post back if it does. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Still leaks ..almost pours out of front left corner baffle area ggrrrr
Still leaks almost pour, when i was working on it prior to you helping the I had pulled part #505 and sump cap out . Could this gasket be loose now and throwing the water to the front?
Also a tiny white C-clip fell on the floor when I opened the DW door..but that was after the leak was discovered.
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I believe if the leak were coming from that part it would be leaking from the bottom not the door but make sure it is pushed down good and the clamp is tight. The wash arm is what will shoot water under the door. Did you take that off? also you need to determine if maybe the leak is coming through the door or under the door. The door gaskets almost never go bad but make sure its not loose. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
The arm was never removed, I didn’t havethe DW pushed all the way in so I put it in tightened it up top and leveled it with a slight tilt in the back..the float is good the gaskets hold water and the door seal is great, the black side seals i took those out and cleaned them put them back in. so…I will go turn it on now and see what happens. The water valve looks good…it poured out of the side left corner of the door before…so I’ll get bacj to you..
well found it ! a hole small left corner right infront of the baffle I tried to push down on the baffle to see if it would stop and discoved a hole bottom of door. it looks like a screw they used to put the outside kickplate on has penetrated all the way thru it was not original screw they used. what now?
Someone must have used the wrong screw when putting the front on before. I am assuming the screw was stopping up the hole. That’s why it wasn’t leaking before. You can try putting the same screw back in but if that doesn’t work you may have to try patching the hole with epoxy or something like that.
JB WATER WELD…my newest friend..yes wrong screw.It was obviously seeping around the screw before as my kick panel shows rust..a new one and JB Water Weld and we are all set It works great, no leaks and I thank you so very much! Couldn’t have felt this proud of myself without your help. 
Take care!