GE GTD42GASJ3WW dryer not heating

Brand: GE
Model Number: GTD42GASJ3WW
Main Symptom: No heat
What happens & when: Drum spins, but no heat. Igniter is not glowing.

Error Code (if any):N/A
Parts or tests already tried: My gas dryer stopped working today. The drum spins but there’s no heat. The vent is clear. I checked the igniter and it isn’t glowing. I tested the igniter and have 68 ohms, from everything I’ve seen, that should be good. I tested the coils and I have 1300 ohms on both coils. I’ve tested everything…hi-limit, safety, control inlet, drum outlet and the flame detector. All of the switches show continuity, along with the flame detector. The control inlet and drum outlet both have 9000 ohms, just like the schematic shows. I’m stumped! Is it possible the igniter is still bad even though it’s showing 68 ohms?
Photos / video link:

This is a crude drawing how power is flowing through the circuit.
31-16924 GE GTD42GASJ3WW Dryer Mini Manual copy.pdf (1.6 MB)
31-16924 GE GTD42GASJ3WW Dryer Mini Manual.pdf (650.4 KB)

So, just to follow up with this and close it out, for anyone interested. I tested for 120 volts at the igniter with the dryer running and I had no voltage. Someone on another forum suggested I test the temperature control switch. While my meter was still hooked up, I rotated the temp control switch to different settings and…bingo! Apparently when my wife changed the temp to cotton for her last load, she inadvertently went a little too far past cotton, which essentially turns it off even though there is no “off” setting on the temp. There is also no detent to stop someone from turning it too far. Oh well, so now it’s fixed even though it was never broke and all for $0. Maybe this might help someone.

Thanks for the reply! I was just responding to this at the same time. The problem is fixed. It was just the temperature knob got turned too far to the left, which opens the circuit and I had no voltage at the igniter.