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Brand: GE Model Number:dbxr463ed1ww Main Symptom: Will Not Turn on What happens & when: When you set a cycle, close the door and turn the start switch unit will not turn on
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Going based on the YouTube Video for trouble shooting I have done the following.
Checked electrical voltage at L1 & L2 terminals from cable. Got 120V on Each and 240V combined.
Tested for continuity at the Start switch and Passed
Tested for continuity at timer between B & C- Passed
Tested for continuity at Door Switch-Passed
Tested for continuity at High Limit Thermostat-Passed
Tested for continuity at interlock switch for pulley arm-Passed
Tried 2 different motors (Brand New) and still will not turn on. Tested between points 4 & 5. and worked
In my paranoia, I did swap out the start switch and door switch but still nothing.
At this point I am a total loss and don’t know what else to check to see why it is not turning on. Anything thing else I can test/check that would cause this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If photos or videos are needed I will gladly add them.
With the console back panel removed and the multimeter set to Volts AC and the timer set to a cycle, is there 120 Volts AC when testing from the brown wire at the start switch to the yellow wire at the timer terminal X?
If the door is opened and the door switch pressed in by hand, will the dryer start? If not, will it start if you hold the start switch in the start position and rotate the drum by hand? If not, then with the power supply turned off, the door switch wires would need to be accessed. From the red wire at the start switch to the brown/yellow wire at the door switch, is there a resistance reading from the motor circuit? If there is not a resistance reading that matches what was found when testing directly at the motor from terminal 4 to terminal 5, the main wire harness would be the likely cause of failure. Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
The dryer will not start with the switch pressed in with either the door closed or open even if i have it pushed down manually. I have not tried the drum rotation as it is all disassembled and i am trying to get the motor to turn over before putting it all back together. When testing from the red wire on the start switch all the way to the yellow/brown wire at the door switch i have continuity and resistance of 2.2. On the motor from Terminal 4-5 it comes in at 2.1-2.3
With the dryer disassembled, the belt switch (belt pulley switch) would need to be activated manually to get accurate information. Since the start switch is a temporary contact switch, the moment it is release, the voltage would flow through the brown wire going to the belts switch from the start switch, then out to the motor through the pink wire. The red wire from the start switch will only provide the starting 120 Volts AC when the start switch is activated and when released, it will stop sending voltage. If the motor rotates freely by hand, a large chip clip or equivalent can be used to secure the belt switch. From there, the multimeter can be set to Volts AC and secured at the motor terminals 5 and 4. The power supply cord can be plugged back in, and the timer set to a cycle. With care, and making sure the meter probes do not slip, attempt to start the dryer. Does 120 Volts AC reach the motor and does it start or does it stay stationary? If voltage briefly shows then goes out, does voltage show up and stay if you hold the start switch in the activated position?
Although I did not mention it previously, I have a clip pressing down on the belt pulley switch And the door switch. At the start switch I get 120V at Both brown wires which are on terminals 3 & 4. Terminal 2 has the 2 red wires, 1 going to the motor and the other to the EOC Signal. When I turn the switch I get a slight increase in voltage but it is minimal. This is tested at terminals 4 & 5 on Motor. On the replacement motor I have this is how the wires are connected
It sounds like the motor is wired properly (the attached picture is for reference), and if I am understanding correctly, not really getting proper voltage. Since the door switch and the start switch both have proper continuity when they are activated, this would indicate a failure in the wire harness. This could be a break in the red wire running from the start switch to the motor, or the brown/yellow wire running from the motor to the door switch. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not produce the wiring harness. With this being the case, rewiring from the start switch to the motor, and from the motor to the door switch, may be necessary to fix this circuit.
