Hi Derek,
If this is the only problem then there is nothing wrong. Flame normally is cycling on and off. If it stays on for about 2 minutes at the very first time and then it stays on for about a minute then everything is fine. The flame should light up every time when the igniter glows.
If the picture with your dryer is different, post detailed description and we will go from there. Don’t forget to post the complete model number of the dryer.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;703191]Hi Derek,
[SIZE=4]If this is the only problem then there is nothing wrong. Flame normally is cycling on and off. If it stays on for about 2 minutes at the very first time and then it stays on for about a minute then everything is fine. The flame should light up every time when the igniter glows.[/SIZE]
If the picture with your dryer is different, post detailed description and we will go from there. Don’t forget to post the complete model number of the dryer.
Gene.[/quote]
Gene, my Model # is Whirlpool LGR4634JT2. [U] PLEASE BEAR WITH THE LONG REPLY BUT I THINK IT WILL BE WORTH IT.
I put your reply in bold for good reason as in all the threads about this problem the cycling of the flame being normal was never really pointed out and wasn’t readily apparent to me. [/U]This made me think that the flame “on for two minutes” was a problem in and of itself. See when my dryer was “short cycling” it was doing so REGARDLESS of whether the DRUM was EMPTY or full of WET CLOTHING. I point this out for good reason and will explain below.
To get by with the household laundry while researching parts/options, etc (like many others I would imagine), I would turn the dryer on with clothing in and monitor the flame via a mirror that I fashioned in front of the inspection window toward the bottom of my dryer. If the flame was out and not reigniting I would turn the dryer to AIR FLUFF to let the dryer “rest” and keep the clothes circulating in the air that was still warm. After five or so minutes I would turn the dryer back to a heat setting and wait to make sure the flame started up again. Painstakingly monotonous to be sure, but it worked and I think I actually used less gas and less dryer time to dry my clothes, lol.
Once I did the repair (Both Coils, Flame Sensor, and Ignitor), I started the dryer EMPTY and much to my dismay watched the flame go on for two minutes and then go off. This point is important because it never dawned on me that the flame is supposed to cycle and an empty dryer reaches operating temperature much faster than one full of wet clothes. (cue the laughter, lol). Impatient, I never stuck around to see if the flame reginited. Daunted, I put a FULL LOAD OF WET CLOTHES in the dryer because I still had laundry to do and sat down in front of the computer to read more and more of these forums. I kept checking the dryer flame and it was still burning after 5 minutes. I then sat down in front of the dryer and watched the flame burn steadily for another 15 minutes straight!!! It then went out for 3 or 4 but this time I stuck around to see it reignite! Eureka!!! Stupid me for not being patient and not thinking of the dryer as similiar to an air conditioner, cycling on and off to maintain a set temperature. This I am pointing out because I think others may be using the same flawed reasoning.
This lead to my below method for assessing if the dryer repair worked (feel free to disagree of course):
If you are testing your dryer repair WITH AN EMPTY DRUM[B], the flame should only run for a minute or two and then cycle off for up to five (5). [U]
In my opinion if you want to fully test your repair and gauge the longevity of the flame burn, load the dryer with a FULL LOAD OF WET CLOTHES. [/U] I have found that this will result in the flame cycle being on FOR UP TO 20 MINUTES, as the dryer attempts to reach an operating temperature while battling against the wet clothing. [/B]
Hopefully you agree with my assessment Gene, and while it may seem like common sense to some, I hope this helped others and potentially might be pointed out as an alternate troubleshooting method with regard to assessing the coils, etc.
Gene please feel free to rebut. 
Thanks, Derek
Hi Derek,
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis with us. Your post was very illuminating and instructive. It will help many other people with similar problems.
Thanks again and good luck with your dryer.
Gene.
[quote=Dyoung70;702813]I too had the same problem…whirlpool lgn1000pq gas dryer…igniter will light flame from cold start…flame runs 5-10 minutes then goes out…never to light again unless left off for a long period…have cleaned entire exhuast system and inside of dryer…have replaced the two gas coils…still same problem…
Any ideas…flame sensor? Thermal Cutoff?
Thanks[/quote]
Sorry for the delay.
The problem you described is one of most common with all gas dryers. The solution is to replace the gas valve coils.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool LGN1000PQ0 29"GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
I have different whirlpool dryer (LGR4634EQ3) and has same issue, I can see the flame during start of cycle and during the cycle for short periods, but it is not drying the clothes.
yesterday I have changed the Thermal fuse and high limit Thermostat, No lint (Exhaust is clean) it improved a little but still not as perfect as it was a week ago.
Need help to fix the issue
Disconnect the vent hose at the back of the dryer and run a load.
If you will see real difference, the house vent line is clogged somewhere.
If nothing changed and the air flow is good but the air is not hot enough, replace the cycling thermostat.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool LGR4634EQ3 GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
I have changed biut still It didn’t work, clothes are hot but not dry, even I ran two cycle
[quote=Gene;705562]Hi Derek,
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis with us. Your post was very illuminating and instructive. It will help many other people with similar problems.
Thanks again and good luck with your dryer.
Gene.[/quote]
Gene thank you, especially for taking the time to help all of us DIYers out on this forum. You are a patient man.
[quote=Gene;706594]Disconnect the vent hose at the back of the dryer and run a load.
If you will see real difference, the house vent line is clogged somewhere.
If nothing changed and the air flow is good but the air is not hot enough, replace the cycling thermostat.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool LGR4634EQ3 GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.[/quote]
I have change cycling thermostat but still same issue, even after running two cycles clothes are wet, they are hot but not dry.
Did you do it?
If not, then you have to.
If you did, what was the result?
Gene.
[quote=Gene;707938]Did you do it?
If not, then you have to.
If you did, what was the result?
Gene.[/quote]
I cleaned the wall vent and it now works great.
Thanks for all your help
You are welcome. I’m glad it’s up and running.
Thank you for the feedback. Restricted air flow due to a clogged vents is very common cause of longer than usual time to dry. Your post would be very helpful for other people with similar problem.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;712258]You are welcome. I’m glad it’s up and running.
Thank you for the feedback. Restricted air flow due to a clogged vents is very common cause of longer than usual time to dry. Your post would be very helpful for other people with similar problem.
Gene.[/quote]
Is there any other parts need to be replaced, clothes are drying but need to run two cycles.
It’s still the same picture or something had been changed?
A few days ago you said “it works great”. Did it get worse since that?
Gene.
[quote=Gene;719655]It’s still the same picture or something had been changed?
A few days ago you said “it works great”. Did it get worse since that?
Gene.[/quote]
Previously it was not drying the clothes at all, now it is drying but use two cycles instead of one.
Does the flame go on every time when the igniter glows?
How long the flame stays on?
Gene.
[quote=Gene;720575]Does the flame go on every time when the igniter glows?
How long the flame stays on?
Gene.[/quote]
I can see the flame every time inginter glows
Flame last exactly 90 seconds
[quote=lilywhite;723659]I can see the flame every time inginter glows
Flame last exactly 90 seconds[/quote]
This is the way how it suppose to work. You have to disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and run a load from A to Z. Post the results.
Gene.
Gene,
I’ve been reading your responses to many users on this forum with the same problem I have. It appears to me that you are the expert.
I just got a used whirlpool gas dryer (LGR4634PQ1) and there is no heat. I tested for continuity on all the steps that you’ve mentioned in other posts. Everything is a-ok. So I ordered a new set of valve coils and replaced them. Still does not work.
What i noticed is that the coil with the 2 prongs is powered (magnetized) when the ignitor is off and it switches to the 3 prong coil when the ignitor is on. And yes my ignitor is working and it glows hot red.
The 3 prong coil was hot to the touch when after 2+ cycles. Is this normal?
Also, i can hear a click when the 2 prong coil is activated but there is no clicking sound (as to open the valve pin) when the 3 prong coil is activated when the ignitor is switched on. In absence of the clicking, I see see the 3 prong coil rattling and makes a buzzing sound - this may be a contributor to the heat?
Do you think my problem here is the gas valve itself? Not sure how the valve pins work but I am assuming it is a mix of gravity that deactivates/closes it and the magnetism from the coil activates/opens it? with this in mind, do you think if this was my problem - a gentle tap could knock the valve pin free?
Just yesterday another guy posted on the forum that one of two coils he purchased from a local supplier was bad right out of the box.
It’s not a good news because we can not rely on brand new parts anymore. You may want to check the new coils by measuring the resistance between terminals.
The normal readings suppose to be:
2 prong coil - 1220 Ohms ± 50 Ohms
3 prongs coils - with prongs upward, from left to right
between the left and middle prongs - 1365 Ohms ± 25 Ohms,
between the left and right prongs - 560 Ohms ± 25 Ohms.
Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool LGR4634PQ1 29" GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.