**Brand Frigidaire
Model Number: FFHT1425VV05
Main Symptom: Food compartment too cold
What happens & when: With temp control turned all the way down to warmest, temp does not get above 28 degrees. The vents are not blocked in any manner.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: I have replaced the temp sensor. I have checked the vents to make sure they are open.
If I have to check sensors please be specific as how to check them and where they are located.
Photos / video link:
Conrad1, based on the information provided, the main control would be the most likely cause of failure if the fresh food sensor has been replaced. 5304526091 Refrigerator Electronic Control Board | Genuine Frigidaire OEM In Stock
I ordered and replaced the main control board as you advised.
The warmest i can get the food compartment is 31 degrees.
Where do we go from here?
I originally ordered part # 5304520490 Refrigerator control box because the description said it would help fix temperature fluctuations but all you get is the plastic housing, not the switch to control the temperature. That part is being returned. I’m not sure what is left to replace other than the control switch to set the temperature.
When the knob is set to the off position, does the cooling system turn off? Also, is the thermometer in the middle of the refrigerator, near the bottom, or near the top? Placement can make a difference and usually placing a thermometer in the center would give a good idea of the temperatures.
The compressor does shut off when I turn the switch to off.
The picture of the thermometer is taken from the bottom crisper drawer.
Some of the products we store in there need to be kept between 37-43 degrees. this fridge used to meet that. I’m not suse what changed.
What temperature is measured when the thermometer is placed in the center, and then at the top shelf? This can help identify if the unit is that cold throughout or if this is a layer issue. Also, the door gaskets can be checked to ensure there are no air gaps that might allow warm air into the refrigerator, especially at the top of the fresh food door. Since the thermistor 5304520944 in the temperature control box was replaced, the only other step I can think of taking would be testing the thermistor resistances from the main control after unplugging the power cord. While the thermometer is measuring the top shelf temperature, the thermistor can be tested from the 10 pin wire connection that connects to the J3 connector on the main control. After disconnecting the wires from the main control, the black wire at pin 1 (pin 2 will not have a wire on it which will be an easy indicator of what side starts with pin 1) would be tested to the black wire at pin 5. What resistance is found with what temperature reading? Here is a general temperature/resistance chart for Frigidaire refrigerators that we can use for reference.
The temp on top shelf, center shelf and crisper drawer are within 2 degrees. The refridge is approximately 1 year old and the gaskets are like brand new. I checked the ohms on the new thermistor with it installed in the fridge with the new board like you asked. The results are attached in the pictures. I had the old thermistor laying on a shelf in the fridge and took readings off of that at the same time. It seemed like the old one was closer to the chart readings than the new one so I put the old one back in with the new board and left it cool overnight. The fridge temp this morning is still at 30 degrees. I am not sure where to go next.
The sensors should be good based on what they are measuring compared to the general chart. It is also very unlikely that the new control and the old control would be failing in the exact same manner. Do you have a spare thermometer that can be used? This is just to make sure we aren’t missing any possibility.
I thought about that possibility. I had 3 thermometers in the fridge at the same time. They were all within 2 degrees.
If all wire connections are fully seated and secure, the only test I can think of would be testing the temperature selector potentiometer. This would be a very unlikely part since resistance would degrade, which should result in warmer temperatures. However, with the power cord unplugged and the control box removed, the potentiometer can be tested for resistance while in the on position. From the black wire to the orange wire (wires may need to be tested at the plastic wire connector), there should be a resistance around 10K Ohms. A resistance reading would then be taken from the black wire to the white/gray wire, then from the orange wire to the white/gray wire. Both resistances added together should equal to around 10K Ohms (should add up to the same reading as the black wire to the orange wire). Is the resistance different from this?
Based on how the manufacturer has the potentiometer wired, there does appear to be an issue with the potentiometer since the gray wire leads to a moving part that when tested to the other wires, should measure less than the total sum of the outer wires (see attached image). For the resistances to increase so much at the two points is very abnormal from what I understand on these electronics, and should result in higher temperatures instead of colder ones. However, the middle temp would be close enough to the proper range we would expect. While it is possible that the potentiometer could be causing temperature issues if set to the warm and cold temps, it should allow for proper cooling at the middle setting. If the potentiometer is set to the middle setting where it gets the same readings, and installed back to the unit, does the temperature regulate properly at that point? If it does, the potentiometer would be the issue since the resistances on the far ends are measuring as high as they are. If not, while it may be abnormal, it may be a faulty main control. 5304520496 Refrigerator Wiring Harness Assembly | Genuine Frigidaire OEM In Stock
If that is the position where the resistance reads 4.73 and 5.7, then the only thing I can think of would be a faulty main control.
