Dryer Parts

Dryer Repair
23

[QUOTE=trixiefaircloth;295692]what do you mean open[/QUOTE]

“Open” used in regards of a fuse or any of a such electrical parts means “No continuity” or infinite resistance.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

Gene.

24

Gene; In your reply to Vonda, you list three parts to check continuity for. I was able to ID the Whirlpool equivalent parts which all show continuity on my dryer, but there is one thermostat part on the Whirlpool that was not on the list. In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922). The latter shows continuity on my dryer but the former does not. Should it?

Thanks
mallisonb

[quote=Gene;17213]Hi Vonda,

The piece you are talking about is a timer resistor. It has nothing to do with the heating problem.

There are three parts which you have to check for continuity:

The hi-limit thermostat (#3 on the break down diagram).

The thermal fuse (#5 on the break down diagram).

The cycling thermostat (#14 on the break down diagram).

If any of these parts is open - it has to be replaced.

Gene.[/quote]

25

[QUOTE=mallisonb;496818]Gene; In your reply to Vonda, you list three parts to check continuity for. I was able to ID the Whirlpool equivalent parts which all show continuity on my dryer, but there is one thermostat part on the Whirlpool that was not on the list. In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922). The latter shows continuity on my dryer but the former does not. Should it?

Thanks
mallisonb[/QUOTE]

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.

26

LG5796XPWO

[quote=Gene;496847]What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.[/quote]

27

Your mistake is that you tried to use instructions for the electric dryer while having problems with the gas dryer. The troubleshooting is different for those dryers.

The fist thing you may want to check for continuity is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram). If this fuse is open, replace the cycling thermostat as well and clean the dryer vent line.

[QUOTE]
…In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922)…[/QUOTE]

This part is actually a heater. The normal resistance reading should be between 5000 Ohms and 9000 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, replace it too.

There are two different thermal fuses listed for this dryer by Whirlpool (weird), so you have to determine which one is used in your dryer before order any.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5796XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
P.S. You can find some useful information in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/4743-no-heat-gas-dryer.html

28

Gene; I read the thread you sent me (No Heat on Gas Dryer) and checked out all the parts (including the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat). They all have continuity but inconsistencies I ran into are as follows:

  1. The thermostat heater had a resistance of 3,670 ohms versus the minimum of 5,000, so I will replace that

  2. The secondary coil had a resistance between the 1 & 2 terminals of 1398 ohms, slightly higher than the spec of 1365 +/- 25 ohms, so I will probably replace both coils considering the price. Not mentioned in the thread was continuity between the 2 & 3 terminals. I got a resistance of 1975 ohms. Is that significant or even relevant?

  3. The Ignitor has continuity but it has a resistance of 94.4 ohms. Is that normal? When I cut on the dryer, it glows and the burner lights so it appears to be functional.

Thanks

[quote=Gene;496894]Your mistake is that you tried to use instructions for the electric dryer while having problems with the gas dryer. The troubleshooting is different for those dryers.

The fist thing you may want to check for continuity is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram). If this fuse is open, replace the cycling thermostat as well and clean the dryer vent line.

This part is actually a heater. The normal resistance reading should be between 5000 Ohms and 9000 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, replace it too.

There are two different thermal fuses listed for this dryer by Whirlpool (weird), so you have to determine which one is used in your dryer before order any.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5796XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
P.S. You can find some useful information in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/4743-no-heat-gas-dryer.html[/quote]

29

[QUOTE=mallisonb;497066]…When I cut on the dryer, it glows and the burner lights so it appears to be functional…[/QUOTE]

So far this is the first description on the problem with the dryer you posted.

I’m assuming that the actual problem is that the flame does not come on every time when the igniter is on. If this is correct then the problem is a bad gas valve coils (most likely) or a bad gas valve itself (very rare).

So, the solution is to replace the gas valve coils.

Gene.

30

[quote=Gene;497565]So far this is the first description on the problem with the dryer you posted.

I’m assuming that the actual problem is that the flame does not come on every time when the igniter is on. If this is correct then the problem is a bad gas valve coils (most likely) or a bad gas valve itself (very rare).

So, the solution is to replace the gas valve coils.

Gene.[/quote]

Gene;
Got the coils and the thermostat heater in yesterday. Measured the continuity and resistance and found no continuity on the latter at any range on the resistance meter (and yes I do have the probes plugged into the right holes). Just wanted to get verification from you that I recieved a faulty part before I contact a customer service.

Thanks

31

It is not a long job to install them and I’ll give it a try. You can return it any time if you ordered from APP.

Gene.

P.S. Did you have any problem with the lower temperature?

32

[QUOTE=mallisonb;500742]Gene;
Got the coils and the thermostat heater in yesterday. Measured the continuity and resistance and found no continuity on the latter at any range on the resistance meter (and yes I do have the probes plugged into the right holes). Just wanted to get verification from you that I recieved a faulty part before I contact a customer service.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

Dear mallisonb,

We were unable to find any orders under the email address you provided for your forum registration. If you purchased them from us please feel free to call our toll free number 1-877-477-7278 with your complete model and serial number so we can send you a replacement. Defective parts do not have to be returned. The manufacturer requires you to hold them for 30 days.

33

[QUOTE=Adam / APP Team;501138]Dear mallisonb,

We were unable to find any orders under the email address you provided for your forum registration. If you purchased them from us please feel free to call our toll free number 1-877-477-7278 with your complete model and serial number so we can send you a replacement. Defective parts do not have to be returned. The manufacturer requires you to hold them for 30 days.[/QUOTE]
Adam;
I went on live chat with Nikki and took care of the problem late last night. The order number is actually tied to another email address that is associated with my paypal account. If you still need to close that loop, I can call in or you can touch base with Nikki on life chat. Let me know.

Thanks

34

[QUOTE=mallisonb;501767]Adam;
I went on live chat with Nikki and took care of the problem late last night. The order number is actually tied to another email address that is associated with my paypal account. If you still need to close that loop, I can call in or you can touch base with Nikki on life chat. Let me know.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

As long as you have been taken care of all should be good. If you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask. We are here to help you in every step of the way.

Thank you for choosing Appliance Parts Pros.com

36

[quote=Admin / APP Team;4059]Dryer thermal fuses, igniters, valve coils, heating elements, drum belts, bearings, and other common dryer parts can be found here - dryer parts - no model number required.

[/quote]

I had heard from a technician that every brand product have a model number and when replace the product. First check its model and then replace it with the same model number otherwise it cause any serious damage of the product.

37

I’m assuming you meant “parts”, not the whole dryer.

If you click on the link provided in this post, you’ll see the page with a [COLOR=Magenta]common[/COLOR] parts grouped by part names and manufacturers. Every part has its own description. It’s a good idea to use such search if you don’t have the model number of your dryer or you would like to save your time.

Gene.

38

I’m new at this, so be patient with me. I want to learn and do it right.
My dryer works but blows cold air.

I checked the thermostat and it seems to be fine. I checked the cutoff and I get (1) on the multimeter. So I though I just needed to change that out. Then I was told that if one goes they both go - cutoff and thermostat. Is that true?

39

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.

40

Gene
could you please tell me how to test hi limit thermistor , recycling thermostat
thanks

Cung

41

I have Whirlpool dryer Model #: WED70HEBW and its drum belt not working smoothly when it take start i make sound like a big buss so what do you suggest me that issue???

47

I have a Whirlpool electric Dryer WED5100 VQ1 and I replaced the Thermal cutoff Kit and the dryer only heats part time. The first two or three times I turned the dryer on it heated up right and then it only heats part time. What could be wrong? JimHB