After coming back from vacation the washer wasn’t washing and the soap wasn’t dissolving. So, I saw that the washer arms had paper pieces in them. I cleaned out, and it seemed to work after that, but now the dishwasher fills sometimes. One cycle it will fill, another it will not. Always drains and water always shoots, but it doesn’t fill. The float seems to work, and the float valve works. Not sure of the intake valve. How do I test the intake, or are there other things I should also check?
Check across the valve with a meter.
If it is getting 120 volts and not opening then odds are that the valve is toast.
Since the fault is intermittent it may be a pain to see the failure.
Thanks for the reply. I checked across the posts of the fill valve with my ohmmeter and there is normal continuity. After my last post I turned the machine on - it filled at the Normal setting on the dial, and stayed filled until the drain at the rinse cycle, then it did not fill. Seems to be different every time. If it is most likely the fill valve, then maybe I should just replace it anyway - its only $21. Could it be anything else?
[COLOR=“Blue”]I checked across the posts of the fill valve with my ohmmeter and there is normal continuity.[/COLOR]
Since the problem is intermittent, this really does not tell you anything. Also the valve can measure OK for resistance but still not open.
[COLOR=“Blue”]If it is most likely the fill valve, then maybe I should just replace it anyway - its only $21.[/COLOR]
Yes that is what I would do as it is at the top of the list.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Could it be anything else?[/COLOR]
Could also be a bad control board or a bad connection/wire from the control board to the valve.
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Now it seems the dishwasher always fills on the first cycle, but does not fill on any cycles after that. Still think it is best to go with the new valve, or should I look at something else as well? Thanks again.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Now it seems the dishwasher always fills on the first cycle, but does not fill on any cycles after that. Still think it is best to go with the new valve, or should I look at something else as well?[/COLOR]
Yes I would start by replacing the water valve.
I could be something else but to be able to move forward you have to eliminate the valve as the cause.
You could attach your meter across the valve, set it to 200 volts AC and then run a cycle. If the valve gets 120 volts AC and does not open than the valve is toast.
It was the valve! Thanks for the great advice.