Can I replace ONLY the rear bearing assembly?

Washer Repair
1

Here’s what happened: The machine could not stand the wear put on it by the 8-10 people living in our house and gave way to terrible knocking during the spin cycle. It went ignored until it finally quit spinning all together. During the spin cycle, the drum quit spinning, but it sounded like the belt was trying to turn it regardless.

I had the machine diagnosed by a repair person as needing a new rear drum bearing kit, and belt. He said it was most likely caused by over loading the machine, which is very likely true.

After researching a bit, I could find no way of replacing the bearing alone, but would need to purchase the whole drum assembly, which I doubt is necessary seeing the machine is barely over a year old. I would much rather keep the current drum and replace the bearing separately. Any comments?

Also…seeing that the machine ran for some time while it was damaged, would there be need to worry about changing the shock absorber as well? Or should the new bearing/tub assembly and belt do the trick?

Thanks for any advice…

Jesse

2

[quote=jesseservin;338796]Here’s what happened: The machine could not stand the wear put on it by the 8-10 people living in our house and gave way to terrible knocking during the spin cycle. It went ignored until it finally quit spinning all together. During the spin cycle, the drum quit spinning, but it sounded like the belt was trying to turn it regardless.

I had the machine diagnosed by a repair person as needing a new rear drum bearing kit, and belt. He said it was most likely caused by over loading the machine, which is very likely true.

After researching a bit, I could find no way of replacing the bearing alone, but would need to purchase the whole drum assembly, which I doubt is necessary seeing the machine is barely over a year old. I would much rather keep the current drum and replace the bearing separately. Any comments?

Also…seeing that the machine ran for some time while it was damaged, would there be need to worry about changing the shock absorber as well? Or should the new bearing/tub assembly and belt do the trick?

Thanks for any advice…

Jesse[/quote]

Jesse,

I am not aware of the manufacturer supplying a bearing or bearing repair kit for your unit,

You’ll need to order and replace the rear tub assembly.

I wouldn’t be too worried about a shock absorber.

I’d be more conscerned about a damaged or scarred spin tub shaft, that would require a spin tub as well, it doesn’t occurr often, and minor damage can be repaired with emory cloth and a “shoe shine”.

And you won’t know until you tear down the unit.

It’s relatively easy to do the repair, but it does have it’s frustrating moments,

Let us know what you decide, so we can assist you, more.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

3

Thanks for the advice and heads up, I appreciate it. I’m gonna tear the machine down today, so I will post the outcome, maybe even some of the stages I encounter. I hope no further damage is revealed!!

4

One more question: how does “shoe shine” repair damage to the spin shaft? And what’s the difference between minor and major damage in this case? Will it be obvious?

5

Jesse,

Minor damage to the spinner shaft, would be light scratches, discoloration, very slight variation of the shaft, especially in the bearing areas.

You can usually get it re surfaced using emory cloth paper in the areas,and using a " shoe shine" buffing motion.

Major damage to the spinner shaft, would be very deep scratches, a blue discoloration, or gouges or metal splotches on the shaft in the bearing areas.

Like I said, you probably won’t need a spinner tub, it’s got to be pretty bad, I would guess there’s a 90% chance you won’t.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

6

McMaster Carr carries bearings. You need to get the info off the bearing that is bad and see if you can match one up in their catalogue. They carry all kinds of bearings.

My dishwasher motor stopped working because the bearing where the seal is located was leaking and it eventually destroyed the bearing.

Disassembled the motor, took the bearing off and it just so happened that I had a replacement bearing that I purchased about 10 years ago from McMaster Carr. Checked the number on the bad bearing, and the bearing I had was an exact fit and replacement.

Cost about 1.0 hour to replace it after I cleaned and polished the shaft. Use a stro[ emory cloth along with penetrating oil - this will remove the rust and allow you to polish the shaft.

Hope this info helps.

SteveKJR

[quote=jesseservin;338796]Here’s what happened: The machine could not stand the wear put on it by the 8-10 people living in our house and gave way to terrible knocking during the spin cycle. It went ignored until it finally quit spinning all together. During the spin cycle, the drum quit spinning, but it sounded like the belt was trying to turn it regardless.

I had the machine diagnosed by a repair person as needing a new rear drum bearing kit, and belt. He said it was most likely caused by over loading the machine, which is very likely true.

After researching a bit, I could find no way of replacing the bearing alone, but would need to purchase the whole drum assembly, which I doubt is necessary seeing the machine is barely over a year old. I would much rather keep the current drum and replace the bearing separately. Any comments?

Also…seeing that the machine ran for some time while it was damaged, would there be need to worry about changing the shock absorber as well? Or should the new bearing/tub assembly and belt do the trick?

Thanks for any advice…

Jesse[/quote]

7

[quote=SteveKJR;340892]McMaster Carr carries bearings. You need to get the info off the bearing that is bad and see if you can match one up in their catalogue. They carry all kinds of bearings.

My dishwasher motor stopped working because the bearing where the seal is located was leaking and it eventually destroyed the bearing.

Disassembled the motor, took the bearing off and it just so happened that I had a replacement bearing that I purchased about 10 years ago from McMaster Carr. Checked the number on the bad bearing, and the bearing I had was an exact fit and replacement.

Cost about 1.0 hour to replace it after I cleaned and polished the shaft. Use a stro[ emory cloth along with penetrating oil - this will remove the rust and allow you to polish the shaft.

Hope this info helps.

SteveKJR[/quote]

Steve,

Thanks for the bearing info, and your polishing info as well(I never used penetrating oil, but see how it would help, will keep that in mind).

Thanks Again,
:cool: :cool: :cool:

8

Thanks for the help Steve, and sorry about the late update.

I began dismantling the machine with the intention of replacing the entire rear drum assembly (as I hadn’t seen this latest posting at the time), but stopped short once I seen that the bearing seemed to be in good condition. The pulley wheel and drive belt seemed to be the only parts that were damaged, so I replaced those parts, put it all back together and the machine has been running. Only now I think the drain pump has died, but that seems to be an unrelated problem. Thanks again for your help!!

9

[quote=jesseservin;384598]Thanks for the help Steve, and sorry about the late update.

I began dismantling the machine with the intention of replacing the entire rear drum assembly (as I hadn’t seen this latest posting at the time), but stopped short once I seen that the bearing seemed to be in good condition. The pulley wheel and drive belt seemed to be the only parts that were damaged, so I replaced those parts, put it all back together and the machine has been running. Only now I think the drain pump has died, but that seems to be an unrelated problem. Thanks again for your help!![/quote]

Jesse,

Thanks for the update.

Glad, it wasn’t as bad as it sounded at the start of this post.

As for the drain problem, you may want to remove the drain pump filter, and check it for debris and clogs, before you replace it.

AP6023956

Good Luck,
:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: