[QUOTE=drew85205;730648]Just curious, how much did the service call cost?[/QUOTE]
$69.95, reasonable, except that I was not convinced the control board is the culprit. And next day I was given an estimate/quote of $440 for fixing the problem.
[quote=away;730583]Hi,
Don’t know where my post went, I will try again.
I am having same problem (“oL”) with my Whirlpool Cabrio Washer (wttw6600sw0). The scenario is that the washer does not stop filling water during Wash cycle, it appears being stuck after Wash cycle begins for 10 mins, hence, overloaded with water. Spin and drain appear OK.
I’d ordered and replaced the RPS kit(AP4327312) even though there was not any sign of leakage nor damage, situation does not improve. I also ordered and replaced its processor/control board (W10189966), no improvement either.
Ran manufacturer’s manual diagnostic test (#6) that supposed to recalibrate the water level and Pressure Transducer.
Failed manufacturer’s automatic diagnostic test C1.
A Maytag repair person came on site and charged me for a house call, his initial conclusion was that I need to replace the control board (which I did already) and quoted me $400+ to fix it. Upon knowing the board is replaced, he mentioned that the board’s memory still needs to be reset. Any truth to this?
Please help!
Thanks.
Away[/quote]
Away,
You have checked and made sure you have good water supply and pressure to the fill valve, from the faucets, and a valve solenoid is not “sticking” open, a quick easy check, unplug the power cord, while the washer is filling in a warm water wash.The valve should “snap” shut.
We’re not aware of a need to “reprogram” a new CCU/control board, when replaced. But you can test and recalibrate the water level transducer, if needed, but that’s not a normal occurrence either.
You have checked and made sure there are no twists, kinks, holes or loose air dome hose connections, correct. ? You also want to disconnect the air tube from the tub and check the tub connector for deposits and debris, restricting the air flow into and up the tube. and make sure the retainer clip and screw are not too tight or pinching the tube.
Thanks and Good Luck,
I managed to repair my cabrio (basket was stuck on filthy drive shaft ) but I would like to know if I can clear the codes that it caused? or are they forever in the memory?
Ptesmoke, Sorry, the error codes are retained by the memory chip in the control board. The number of error codes is limited, and the older codes will “drop out” and be replaced the the newer codes, the most recent code being first.
Thanks,
awesome thanks for the quick reply!
for anyone’s reference in the future…I had f41 and f51 fault codes, running diag check failed on c1 with an oL fail code.
f41 and f51 indicated an rps sensor problem, further investigation found that the basket was stuck in the up most position, followed the manual to disassemble as I was sure the basket being stuck was causing the rps sensor to err out during a normal wash cycle. also note I had no agitation during a normal cycle.
once basket was loosened enough to remove the obvious fault was corrosion on the drive shaft. cleaned and now she works perfect all thanks to allot of info I found here.
cheers and hope my experience helps someone!
[quote=ptesmoke;800741]awesome thanks for the quick reply!
for anyone’s reference in the future…I had f41 and f51 fault codes, running diag check failed on c1 with an oL fail code.
f41 and f51 indicated an rps sensor problem, further investigation found that the basket was stuck in the up most position, followed the manual to disassemble as I was sure the basket being stuck was causing the rps sensor to err out during a normal wash cycle. also note I had no agitation during a normal cycle.
once basket was loosened enough to remove the obvious fault was corrosion on the drive shaft. cleaned and now she works perfect all thanks to allot of info I found here.
cheers and hope my experience helps someone![/quote]
Ptsmoke,
You’re Welcome
and Thank You for your update / report. It should be very helpful to those who have a similar issue, once they find their way to the Repair Forum.
Thanks Again,
I had a oL error code (overload code) on my Whirlpool Cabrio. The basket (drum) was not floating up to disengage from the shaft when it was supposed to. The basket should be able to slide up and down independently of the agitator about 1/2 inch when lifted. I was able to remove the agitator as shown here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2mxOA-taoo with little effort. But when I tried to pull the basket up and off the shaft it wouldn’t budge. I was able to free it by lifting the basket up with one hand while pounding on the end of the shaft with a 3 foot long 4x4. I found that the shaft had rusted to the basket. I sanded up the shaft. Now it works perfectly with no oL code… until it rusts again someday on that nicely sanded shaft.
BrotherBear, Thanks for your update. We’re glad things went well for you.
Everyone here on the Forum appreciates the updates and service Information and experiences. No repair is exactly the same, evry little bit helps. Thanks Again
hi
this Is related to the whirlpool cabrio washer … giving “ol” error.
A couple weeks ago I bought this washer from my neighbor And it was working fine.
Then when I moved it to my place ( we actually just used a buggy so there was hardly any chance of damage in the move )
I set it up and made sure that it is absolutely level etc.
And now I am getting the “oL” error 
I am thinking the only thing that could be the cause is that in my laundry room on the floor I havethose “spongy” tiles that we find that day care centers ( 24" x 24" multicolored etc. ) I did put it on a piece of wood… But I’m thinking that maybe when the washer fills up and started cycle it detects instability and triggers the “ol”
Does this make any sense or is it truly seem that I was so unlucky that moving it from across the street damaged it somehow.
thanks
[QUOTE=nicholasp;857053]hi
this Is related to the whirlpool cabrio washer … giving “ol” error.
A couple weeks ago I bought this washer from my neighbor And it was working fine.
Then when I moved it to my place ( we actually just used a buggy so there was hardly any chance of damage in the move )
I set it up and made sure that it is absolutely level etc.
And now I am getting the “oL” error
I am thinking the only thing that could be the cause is that in my laundry room on the floor I havethose “spongy” tiles that we find that day care centers ( 24" x 24" multicolored etc. ) I did put it on a piece of wood… But I’m thinking that maybe when the washer fills up and started cycle it detects instability and triggers the “ol”
Does this make any sense or is it truly seem that I was so unlucky that moving it from across the street damaged it somehow.
thanks[/QUOTE]
Nicholas, You may want to check the wires to the RPS switch and make sure they didn’t get dislodged or knocked loose in the move. But that’s the least of your worries. You’ll have to do something about the floor tiles, you need to remove them, basically. This style washer has to be installed on a good solid floor(depending on the condition of the floor, you may have to reinforce it as well). The way the tubs are suspended and the design of the washer, any movement or vibration is transferred from the tub to the cabinet, from the cabinet to the feet, and from the feet to the floor. If the floor isn’t solid enough the washer will shake, and the tub won’t come up to speed, and you’ll get the “OL” (over loaded) error code.
Of course, you also need to make sure the washer isn’t being overloaded, never fill it more than 2/3 full with dry clothes, for proper operation and cleaning performance.
I had the same issue with mine…You will have to replace the 4 shock absorbers that hold the drum in the unit. Its really not that hard. I looked on ************************.com and found the parts I needed and then I went to amazon and typed in the part number and they were almost half price. Put them in and have had no issues since. The shock absorbers kinda keep your drum where you put your clothes balanced. Look on you tube for videos on how to fix.
Now this is the postings that I have been looking for… I think. My Cabrio gets a F70 code and works great until it tries to go into spin. Then it makes a lot of noise, like teeth trying to engage, but not making it. I have checked everything else and tomorrow will check the stator, etc underneath. Thank you guys, and I will post what I find and do.
[QUOTE=Dandur805;879012]Now this is the postings that I have been looking for… I think. My Cabrio gets a F70 code and works great until it tries to go into spin. Then it makes a lot of noise, like teeth trying to engage, but not making it. I have checked everything else and tomorrow will check the stator, etc underneath. Thank you guys, and I will post what I find and do.[/QUOTE]
Dandur, Make sure you include the model number (and serial number if possible) on your next post, it helps in the diagnosis.
Didn’t think SN was needed…but still have the Code 70 on my Cabrio Model WTW6600sb2 SN CWO0770092. Have checked Rotor, Position Sensor, Shocks, Stator, and Drive hub. Everything checks out but still have the F 70…and furthermore, I cannot even get it to clear.
[QUOTE=Dandur805;879077]Didn’t think SN was needed…but still have the Code 70 on my Cabrio Model WTW6600sb2 SN CWO0770092. Have checked Rotor, Position Sensor, Shocks, Stator, and Drive hub. Everything checks out but still have the F 70…and furthermore, I cannot even get it to clear. :([/QUOTE]
Dandur, Sometimes a serial number is necessary for proper parts and service reviews and research, it doesn’t hurt to be thorough.
As you know the F 70 error code is displayed when the machine is overloaded, or the motor can’t achieve the proper RPM within the allotted time.
"oL flashes when the machine/motor control detects a load size that exceeds the washer’s capacity OR basket can not disengage. This may signify:
➔ Load size exceeds washer capacity. Remove excess laundry, then restart cycle. ➔ Mechanical friction on drive mechanism, not allowing the basket to disengage.
With all the previous checks you’ve made, and if you’re sure that the spin basket rises 3/8 of an inch and floats freely, the spin basket isn’t cracked or chipped, and the “Teeth” on both drive hubs are not damaged or distorted, then you’ll need to check the wiring harness between the RPS switch and the main control board. Apparently the data between the two components would be distorted due to a loose or weak connection in the harness.
Today, I am so sore, you can’t believe it.. All the time spent bent over, or crouched behind the washer at 71 years old, is a royal pain. Then there is Murphy… He decided to literally crush my cut off faucet handle in my hand, so I had to replace the faucet AND redo the small 1/2 inch fitting and the 3/4 inch faucet that was on the 1/2 inch copper tube. Today I am done, and last night I ran two loads of clothes in it with no problem. I don’t like it when something starts to work and I don’t know what I did to it. However in a few days when my body starts to work right, I will check the wiring very carefully with a meter and flashlight. Thank you very much for responding… I will post another update next week.
[QUOTE=Dandur805;879119]Today, I am so sore, you can’t believe it.. All the time spent bent over, or crouched behind the washer at 71 years old, is a royal pain. Then there is Murphy… He decided to literally crush my cut off faucet handle in my hand, so I had to replace the faucet AND redo the small 1/2 inch fitting and the 3/4 inch faucet that was on the 1/2 inch copper tube. Today I am done, and last night I ran two loads of clothes in it with no problem. I don’t like it when something starts to work and I don’t know what I did to it. However in a few days when my body starts to work right, I will check the wiring very carefully with a meter and flashlight. Thank you very much for responding… I will post another update next week.[/QUOTE]
Dandur, OK, will keep an eye out for your next post, hope you feel better soon.
I still do not know what caused the F70 code or the noise when it started the spin cycle…but it is apparently gone now. I essentially took everything apart, and found NO problems, cracks, burn wires etc. The hub gears were good, but there was a lot of gunk on them…so I cleaned them all and also ran a small wire brush up and down the splines. I do not like it when I fix something and do not know what it was that fixed it.
[QUOTE=Dandur805;879241]I still do not know what caused the F70 code or the noise when it started the spin cycle…but it is apparently gone now. I essentially took everything apart, and found NO problems, cracks, burn wires etc. The hub gears were good, but there was a lot of gunk on them…so I cleaned them all and also ran a small wire brush up and down the splines. I do not like it when I fix something and do not know what it was that fixed it.[/QUOTE]
Dandur, If the “Gunk” on the hub “gears” was “heavy” and or Gummy enough, it could have kept the tub from engaging the drive hub properly and caused the F70 code. Remember, in the wash cycle the spin basket has to “float” and disengage the drive hub, after the washer drains, the tub has to drop back down on the drive hub to spin the tub, enough “crud” could create at problem.
We’re pretty sure that’s where the problem was.
Since the sound I heard was like a belt slipping or gears not fully engaging, you are probably right. Although the hub gears were not worn, there are no other gears to make that noise. Like I said everything else looked fine. We (me and the grandson) changed out the tub/motor drive shaft a couple years ago and have had no trouble till recently. I wish there was a way to clear the code, but I guess I will just have to live with it and if there are any problems, I can just go after the new codes.
Someone (Betty?) wrote to me and asked for help, but I cannot find where she posted on your site… I don’t want her to feel that I just forgot about her, and am not proficient at moving around your site, so if you can steer me to where I read her post, I would be appreciative.