**Brand:**Whirpool Model Number: WFE510S0HS1 Main Symptom: Bottom right burner turns off when it gets to max temp. What happens & when: The bottom right burner at one point started to continuously stay on max heat and would burn stuff. So based on the website suggested fixes, I replaced the infinity switch. After replacing the infinity switch, it no longer would run continuously at max temperature, but at low settings it didn’t seem to be generating alot of heat and would pulse on and off. At high settings it would hit the max temp and then shut off immediately. So I recently purchased a second part from AppliancePartsPro, the control board itself. After replacing the control board, it still has the same behavior, but I am now noticing a clicking noise when the burner shutsoff at high heat. At this point, I am in $300 dollars worth of parts, and AppliancePros won’t take back used parts. Replacing the burner itself will cost roughly $123 dollars. Is it the burner temperature sensor? Or the burner itself that is causing the issue at this point?
Also, while cooking one time, before we replaced any of these parts, we noticed the control board was extremely hot.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Control Board/Infinity Switch
Photos / video link:
The infinite switch should cycle the surface element on and off based on current draw through the infinite switch. When the surface element is cycling off on max heat, is it heating up and then staying off or does it cycle back on?
Thanks William for replying to my issue and for your help.
It is cycling back on and off…but it appears to be different than the other burners. The other burners will reach max heat, hold for lets say 5-10 seconds, then go off. The one that is not working right even after replacing the infinity switch, it reaches max heat for like 1 second and immediately turns off. Then it takes maybe 5-10 seconds before it again does a 1 second max heat pulse. At lower temperatures, it seems like the delay before turning on again is even longer.
Do you have access to a multimeter? If you do, unplug the power cord, remove the console back panel, plug the power cord back in and turn the element on. Test from the brown wire to the other brown wire for volts AC. When the element turns off too soon, is there 240 Volts AC?
Okay, so that clicking sound is from sparks coming from inside of the infinity switch.
When you initially turn on the switch, it goes up to 244 volts holds for 5 seconds and then turns off and voltage goes to 0, when it is turning off a spark occurs in the infinity switch in the top left portion, then it attempts to heat again and goes up to 224 volts for 1 second, and turns off and you see a spark again. Then it keeps repeating this process where it goes to 224, turns off and goes to zero volts and a spark occurs, then back on again.
When I completely unplugged brown cables from the infinity switch (the burner connection) and just left the infinity switch at high, it was holding 247 volts consistently.
With the power turned off and the brown wires disconnected, do either of them have continuity to the metal frame of the range? If not, test the two brown wires for resistance to identify if the resistance is near 23 Ohms or not. If the resistance is good, and there is no continuity to the frame, the infinite switch is faulty. WP3149400 Range Surface Element Switch | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock