Would it be possible to provide a picture of the entire trough section of the tub from gasket to gasket after the water has filled? While it is possible for a microswitch to click and fail, it is very unlikely that it has failed in a closed circuit position and still click as if it is opening the circuit.
I have tested the float switch and it ohms out correctly, closed with button pushed in and open otherwise. Are you asking me to let it fill normally but stop before it overflows, and then take a pic with the door open. I will do what you wish if you clarify how I should do it.
If you could send a picture of the trough after the initial fill, which should end within 2-3 minutes of starting the dishwasher, this will allow me to see what the water is doing. This will also allow me to see how far the water level is reaching. An up above view and a 45 degree angle from the front view would help give me an idea of what you are seeing.
I will get those pics for you. In the meantime can you comment on the gasket pic? It is clearly damaged on the right. Can it cause a gusher leak in the bottom center of door that happens halfway thru the cycle, or should it be a right bottom door corner leak that is a constant drip?
Regarding the inlet valve, if water enters the machine when turned on, it is being energized. If it doesnât close shouldnât i see water continuing to enter when I open the door? After draining shouldnât I find new water in the bottom?
Do you agree that my model doesnât have a bottom door seal?
While a torn gasket can cause a leak, it would be from the side, not the center. It would also leak every time a jet of water hit that section. Regarding the valve, you are correct. Water should be entering when the valve is energized. When it is no longer being energized, you should not see water come through. The door being opened should stop any working part from being energized if the main control is operating properly. I also agree that this model does not have a bottom door seal from what I can find.
I have 4 pics, click on them to see label, pic 1 and 2 are before start, nothing from valve port on left, dry bottom.
3 and 4 are after running 3 minutes, door open, nothing coming from valve, water at level of element and base of float.
After draining, no water in bottom of tub.
Hope this helps.
In the picture where the float can be seen, is the float submerged under the water?
Water at level of element and base of float. The float switch tests okay and the float moves up and down w/o binding.
Does the lower spray arm seem like it is able to wobble excessively?
No, remember, itâs new.
I examined the upper spray arm for cracks and see none. Does the upper arm with a crack ever cause this, or is it just he lower arm?
While the lower arm is new, I am curios to know if it is seating properly or if there is enough of a wobble where it connects for it to catch or dip down enough to create the wave necessary to surge water out the door. A crack in the upper spray arm would not normally cause this kind of issue. Usually, it would either spray out the side if the gasket was damaged, or it would cause the dishes on the upper rack to not get clean.
no wobble at connection of lower spray arm.
If you press Sani Rinse, High Temp, then Turbo Heat dry quickly and repeat this two more times, it will start a diagnostic mode. At 7 minutes and 50 seconds, the diverter should be set to the lower section using the turbo zone. Does it leak at this point? Opening the door should cancel the diagnostic cycle if it does.
Display reads: F-7, then E-1, several times in succession, followed by F-, E- several times in succession. Then it lights up â1 hour washâ and starts. Are these error codes that mean anything?
The â1 hour wash modeâ has leaked at about the 7 min time frame for several years. A seemingly capable repairman said there was a design flaw in the bottom of the cabinet so that the 1 hour mode leaks but the other choices do not. I donât believe thatâs true, because we used 1 hour wash regularly for 2 years before he was on site, and it didnât leak. Not sure what the real truth is here, but ever since we discover that the 1 hour wash leaked from the center bottom door, we donât use that option and no leak occurs. We use normal wash and no leak, until now. Most importantly, if I do this test it will leak because it defaults to the â1 hour washâ when in this test mode.
I am hesitant to confirm, because it will leak, and I am not sure what the variable of alway leaking on the 1 hour wash before now will do to the test result.
Your thoughts please on what this means?
The specific time I mentioned is when the diverter operates the turbo zone only. This test will identify the specific component involved with the leak being caused since it breaks it down in time and LED illumination to identify what component is being ran. The turbo zone will be identified at 7 minutes 50 seconds with the 1 hour, Start, and Running LEDs being illuminated. After 30 seconds, it should change to Normal, Start, Running, and Dry being illuminated to indicate the lower spray arm being activated. The error F7 E1 indicates that the dishwasher is not heating, which would not apply to the dishwasher leaking. The F- E- indicates no other faults were found.
okay, I will try. Should I be watching for specific codes until the leak occurs?
Remember, when I have been testing, I use the quick rinse option, which runs 18 min total, and the leak occurs at 9 min. I donât believe turbo zone is active during the quick rinse, so how does testing turbo relate to a cycle leak where no turbo is involved?
While the quick rinse is not supposed to run the turbo zone, we are eliminating every possibility by identifying the specific components being operated at a very specific time. Aside from this testing, the only other option I could suggest would be inspecting the water tower at the back and the other spray arms for any cracks that could cause a surge of water.
I ran the test as you described. There is no countdown display in the test cycle and it switches back and forth between 1 hour wash and normal wash. There was no leak during the test. Also, no codes displayed. I then ran the quick rinse expecting the leak at 9 minutes. Also, no leak.
You asked earlier if the new spray arm had a wobble or was loose. I checked thoroughly, or so I thought, when I installed the new arm. It must be tricky, because I checked again before starting the test now, and it lifted off easily without touching the lock tab. Maybe it wasnât as secure as I thought, but it was absolutely secure before this test today.
Could that have been the problem all along?
Can I definitely say that the lower right side gasket tear is not the issue, since it didnât leak for the test or follow-up quick rinse cycle?
I plan to check again on normal wash before I have the nerve to run a load without lying on the floor in front of the door.
I would recommend running a couple more trial tests. The lower spray arm being loose can certainly cause this. If it didnât leak from the corner, I would say the gasket is sealing for the time being.
Will do. I will report back. Regardless, thanks for all the advice.