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Servicer- that was exactly the right suggestion...volts tested fine, so went ahead and ordered the potentionmeter kit...kit arrived in two days, and the stove was back up and running on both sides last night...
thanks a ton...
cheers-
tuckermtn
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/18/2008(UTC)
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My left 2 burners wont do anything, no spark, etc. and I just had the main control replaced to the tune of $500. Wiring issue? Any help will do. Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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What is the complete model number of the range?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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The range model # is RDDS30VQB. I'm asking because the local company has not been the best to deal with, missed appointments with no calls, and the tech seems to be learning on the job. We live in the country and we don't have other company choices. Can you come to Maine? The temp. is around 25 and the wind is blowing 15 miles an hour. Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Servicer  It could be a bad simmer control, but I've seen situations where the voltage going to the simmer control from the potentiometers has dropped to around 100vac or less. When the voltage is this low both exlo burners will quit with no spark or gas. The way to check this is to remove the wires on POT1, POT2 and Line-5V. Measuring from the wire to chassis(ground) you should have ~120vac. If you find an extremely low voltage you can trace the wire back to the potentiometer and check the connection. POT1 goes to the front and POT2 goes to the rear. Line-5v goes to both.
If you find a good 120vac from all the wires to chassis then install the kit, Thermador part number 497235.
KC If you would like to troubleshoot it yourself, please follow the directions above. They apply to your range as well. KC
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the reply. Will do.
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Rank: Member
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I had a Thermador cooktop with one failed potentiometer, and one nearing failure. I repaired my potentiometers using an automotive rear window defroster repair kit and some superglue. Here's what I did.
My model is from 1999, so your potentiometers may be different, but mine have a red plastic disk that holds the rotating contact brushes. My potentiometer failed because the edge of the red disk was rubbing on the PC board and wore-thru one of the traces going from the edge connector to the circular potentiometer area. The contacts, brushes, even the other areas of the potentiometer traces were just fine. The trace was simply cut in one spot by the red disk. (Frankly, it's a terrible design. It basically broke itself. Dumb.)
I took the potentiometer apart and carefully scraped off the dark resistive coating (about 1/16" or so) on the traces on both sides of where the red disk had worn through, exposing the bare metal beneath. (Now, at this point you're basically following the instructions for the rear window defroster repair kit.) I wiped it with rubbing alcohol to get it really clean. I masked off the adjacent areas with some tape, exposing only the bare metal area. I brushed on the liquid electrical contact material (that comes in the rear window defroster repair kit) over the bare metal, and over the worn-thru trace area. I applied a couple of coats. (It’s a liquid copper, I think.)
Once it was dry, I tested it with a Multimeter to make sure contact was reestablished; It was good. So, I super-glued over the area (and on the other areas where the red disk was rubbing on the traces) to make a hard, protective coating. (Wait for the superglue to dry! It takes a while, unless you have glue accelerator, which I did.) It still tested good, so I reassembled and installed it in the cooktop. It worked perfect, and has been for about 2 weeks now.
I hope this helps you. Your comments helped me. If you decide to replace your potentiometer with a new one (instead of repairing), and if they have not changed the design, you might consider doing just the superglue part of this procedure, so your traces are better protected and will last longer.
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