Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
AmyandLouie  
#1 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 8:04:36 AM(UTC)
Quote
AmyandLouie

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/7/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

So my dad and I are trying to figure out why our dryer won't start. We've run through the list of the "usual suspects" and nothings come up.

Symptoms:
The dryer will not start. A self-diagnostic routine of the dryer indicated that the panel will light up - so it doesn't seem to be a panel issue.

We did a continuity test on the thermal fuse, and it was closed at room temperature (registered zero) --- and when we applied heat to it, it did register on the device. So that appears to be working as well.

The door switch also appears to be working. We removed it and tested that as well - it registered and appeared to be in good working condition.

We also vacuumed out the vents and the unit itself.

There is no blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.



Any suggestions???


Thank you VERY much!!

Amy
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, February 8, 2010 1:01:39 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA LEA90AW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/RS3200005R2.pdf

We did a continuity test on the thermal fuse
This should not effect starting

[COLOR="Blue"]There is no blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.[/COLOR]
I would still check the power in.
This is probably a long shaot as normally the Neutral to L1 power side is also used to power the board which is working.
First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

Unfortunately it sounds like the board is toast.
Your starting circuit is
Neutral , motor's Thermal Protect, Start and Run motor windings, motor's centrifugal Switch, H1-1 on the board, Relay K1, H1-2 on the board, Door Switch 3/1, H1-3 on the board, FS1 on the board, L1

Check for burned tracks on the board and bad connections.
Check the soldering at the K1 relay.

If you measure from H1-1 to H1-2 you should see 120 volts with the door closed.
When you push start it should drop to 0 volts.
If not either the relay is not being activated or it's contacts are toast.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.