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Hah45  
#11 Posted : Thursday, October 5, 2017 12:08:25 PM(UTC)
Hah45

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I replaced the cut off, thermal fuse and cycling on sunday. I hadn't received the hi limit in the mail yet so I just tried it with the old one. Dryer heated. Dryer stopped heating 2 loads later. That was on Tuesday and I had the high limit by then so I replaced it but still no heat. All of the parts are brand new besides the element.
I took the back off and cleaned all of that out.I Went Outside and made sure that was clear and I completely replaced the foil "hose" with a metal one.
brobriffin  
#12 Posted : Thursday, October 5, 2017 12:45:11 PM(UTC)
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How far is your exhaust on the outside of the house from the laundry room?
Is the vent on an outside wall where it simply goes thru the wall or is it a longer distance to the outside using ducting to get there?
brobriffin  
#13 Posted : Thursday, October 5, 2017 12:47:32 PM(UTC)
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The point I'm getting at is your symptoms lead me to believe there is a clog in the vent system somewhere.
Hah45  
#14 Posted : Thursday, October 5, 2017 8:03:58 PM(UTC)
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There is a hose(duct) that goes from the dryer and then to the outside wall and straight out.
Is there any other place in the dryer I should be looking? I took off the back and cleaned all around in that area
brobriffin  
#15 Posted : Friday, October 6, 2017 6:07:35 AM(UTC)
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Ok when you cleaned it was there a lot of lint build up?
After you reassemble the machine leave the slinky tube (transition hose) off the exhaust of the machine and run an air only cycle. Then see is the exhaust is blowing good and strong. if so reattach the transition hose and go outside to compare is you have about the same amount of air moving. If it seems that there may be a lack of air moving two things might still be an issue.
1. there is a significant lint build up on the fan blades and needs to be cleaned
2. people who use fabric softener sheets may find a couple covering the air outlet located inside the back right area of the drum. I've seen them almost melted over the air outlet preventing air flow.
Now if the air does seem to be moving very strong, test for heat and then for cycling heat.
A homeowner can do this by simply taking a meat thermometer sticking it into the transition hose about 6 to 12 inches past the exhaust and watching for temp increase. The temperature should increase to around 165º but no higher than 180º. It should then cool down to around 130º before cycling back up.
brobriffin attached the following image(s):
themometer.jpg
Hah45  
#16 Posted : Monday, October 9, 2017 6:46:34 AM(UTC)
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Ok so...now it's looking like it might be the timer..if I'm testing it correctly. Looking online there are several combinations of wires/prongs to test depending on the dryer model. Do I take the wires off and test them or the prongs that the wires were on? Example: red and black wires connect to A and C prongs.
Thanks

Ps..prongs=terminals :)
Hah45  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, October 25, 2017 7:18:52 AM(UTC)
Hah45

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It appears that it was the timer. I took it to someone to fix it. When he opened it up he said it didn't look bad and that might not be the problem. He did show me a part that was a bit burnt.
I took it home and put it back on (along with all of the new fuses/thermostats) and it's been working for over a week!
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