Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395  Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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Power comes from the relay board via terminal P 10 /yellow 34 to the bake element. Through the bake element to Y 34 to a connection with wire B/W 7.
The broil element gets power from the relay board on terminal P 8 /blue 7 to the broil element then through blue 7 to the same common wire as the bake element.
The common wire is B/W 7 that goes to a thermal fuse then by BR/W 7 to terminal P 2 .
Testing voltage across terminals P2 and P10 while in bake mode should show 240 to 220 volts.
Testing voltage across terminals P2 and P8 while in broil mode should show 240 to 220 volts.
If the power is disconnected, you should get an ohm reading while testing from P2 and P10 and from P2 and P6. From the relay board through either element back up to the relay board.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/3/2017(UTC)
Posts: 7
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So I tested all these areas and have found the problem! Hurray!
I tested voltage between the terminals suggested and had voltage. But when I tested resistance between the terminals there wasn't any.
Thought that was weird to have voltage but not resistance. I tested voltage on both sides of the thermal switch/fuse? and it seemed to be present but no resistance thru that switch. I pushed the reset button and nothing changed.
I unscrewed the switch and it made a noticable pop/click sound and then it was good to go. I put the switch back on and the oven seems to be heating.
I am getting 240V to both sides of the heat elements now, finally.
LAST QUESTION: What causes this little fuse/switch to pop? I had tried pushing the reset before but nothing seemed to change. Should I replace it? Is it likely bad? Or could a single event caused it to trip?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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