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br647257  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 22, 2016 4:48:28 PM(UTC)
br647257

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Joined: 11/22/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a Sharp R-1480 over-the-range microwave. It works great with the exception that several years ago the hood lights stopped working even after replacing the light bulbs. I decided to try to fix the issue which I thought was related to the sockets. Luckily the supplier mailed the wrong part. Before reordering the part, I decided to check the wiring for power. Using a voltage tester, I touched the leads to the wires connected to the socket and the tester showed there was power. I got the same result when touching the leads to the metal connecters inside the socket. A friend suggested I might have a contact issue, so I disconnected the plug from the outlet and the wires from the sockets, and using a flat-head screwdriver proceeded to retract the metal contacts located at the top and side of the socket. After reconnecting and securing the sockets, I installed brand new GE 25w T7 Bulb Type E17 Base light bulbs. I plugged the microwave back into the socket and pressed the "Work Light" and "Night Light" keys on the touch pad and nothing. I rechecked for power using the voltage tester and now there is no power to either sockets. The bulbs did not burn out and the microwave continues to work as before. Based on my very limited knowledge, if I had to guess I would have to assume that I blew a fuse.

Question 1) Is my assumption correct? If yes, then
Question 2) I'm assuming I used the incorrect light bulb. The manual only says to use a 30w incadescent light bulb. I did encounter a slight resistance when screwing in the bulb, and figured it was related to getting past the metal contacts I retracted. There was nothing to indicate that I was using the incorrect bulb. I had no issues securing the bulb. What bulb should I have used?
Question 3) If I did blow a fuse, where is it located? How do I access it? What size/type fuse should I get for a replacement?

From reading various articles I understand that just unplugging the appliance will not protect me from getting shock. I could also use help locating and discharging the high voltage capacitor.

Thank you so much for any assistance!

Brad
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ThatGuy  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2016 4:40:21 AM(UTC)
ThatGuy

Rank: Advanced Member

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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,395

The wires from the light sockets goes to neutral and the other goes to the computer control board B9. Probably something fried on the board. Maybe the SSR. (Solid State Relay)

Changing the light bulb live can fry sensitive parts on the board.

Its still available from $ears.part. no. 46-356723-3

The lights are part. no.
504150

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br647257  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 26, 2016 12:57:08 PM(UTC)
br647257

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Posts: 2

ThatGuy,

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Based on your comment re: SSR, I disconnected all the everything from the control panel and took it out to look at it in better light. See the attached pics to what I found. Looks like I did fry the SSR. I believe I have only 2 options....1) Leave as is as everything appears to be working or 2) Buy a new control board. Would you agree?
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ThatGuy  
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 26, 2016 7:06:11 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,395

There are two more options. You could send it out to one of these board repair places or you could try fixing it yourself.

The part is a SHARP S101D01

If you search that part no. on Epay you will find some for under $7 here in the USA and even lower from China. If you are good at soldering, its fairly simple to de-solder the old chip and solder on the new one.
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