2006 Whirlpool Ultimate Care II Washer Model # - GSW9800PW2. Type - 111

Last week our washer stopped agitating in the wash and rinse cycle. It also stopped spinning in the final spin-dry cycles at the very end of both the wash and rinse cycle. However, it will still spin in the drain cycle, which normally follows immediately after agitation for both wash and rinse cycles. This is the same no matter which wash settings (normal, permanent press) are chosen on the timer.

Here is a step by step description of what we see. After setting and pulling the timer knob to begin the wash cycle, the tub fills with the correct temperature water and to the selected depth. After fill is complete, nothing happens. No agitation, no sounds from the motor. Just the quiet sound of the timer motor ticking and timer knob advancing through to the end of the wash cycle and to the drain cycle. At the drain cycle the machine spins and drains normally. After drain is completed, the brake engages to bring the tub to a halt to end the drain cycle. The timer then advances to the spin dry cycle. When in the spin dry cycle, nothing happens, no motor sounds are heard. The timer advances to the rinse cycle and begins filling with the appropriate amount and temperature of water. The machine then repeats the same pattern through the rinse cycle as well.

The timer motor runs and timer selector indicator advances through all the cycles.

If we open the lid during the drain-spin, the spinning stops immediately (3sec) and will begin spinning again once the lid is closed.

Agitator bottom will spin freely in both directions when turned by hand. Tub will not spin when attempting to turn by hand.

Last year we replaced the drive coupler, clutch assembly and agitator dogs. We did not notice any oil leaking in the under washer motor area or on the inside of the washer enclosure.

Do you have an idea of what this could be?
Are there any questions I can answer to help diagnose this issue?

Thank you in advance for your knowledge.

JD

Eric,
Thanks for your reply and detailed testing instructions for the orange motor wire.
I can remove the cabinet, bridge the lid switch and I can look for the orange wire and check it for continuity.

I would like to first check the timer, to rule that out before I remove the cabinet. But I don't know how to test a timer.

I have a multimeter and I can use it to check for the presence of AC or DC current.
But which pin or wire would I check on the timer?" And what voltage range setting would I use on the multi meter?

JD

Eric,
Thank you. I followed your detailed instructions to troubleshoot the orange power wire connecting the timer to the motor.
I found that both the timer and motor switch connectors were clean and the orange wire was firmly attached at both ends.
Next, with the machine plugged into the wall, and the timer switched on and the timer indicator ring turned to the spin cycle, the top end of the orange wire connected to the timer did show 120v on my multimeter.
However, the bottom end of the orange wire at the motor did not show any voltage.

To confirm that the orange wire had failed, I checked it for continuity by removing both connectors and connecting my multimeter to the appropriate pins of each connector and there was no continuity.

To further test, I removed the cabinet, traced the orange wire and removed it by cutting it five inches from each connector. I then checked the removed orange wire again for continuity, it failed.

Eric, It sure seems that your expert diagnosis was correct. How do you suggest I proceed?

My questions:
Can I leave the 5 inches of orange wire in place at each connector and just replace the failed 3 foot section, rather then disturb the connectors themselves?

What gauge and type of wire should I use to replace the failed wire?

What connector, if any is preferable to a wire nut followed by electrical tape?

Thank you again for you knowledge.
JD

Eric,
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and advice.

As you suspected, it turned out to be the orange 120 volt supply cable that runs from the timer connector, down along the wire bundle and down to the motor switch connector.

The repair only cost us the price of the 18gauge stranded copper wire.

Before I contacted this forum, we had exhausted or own diagnostic capabilities and had found no similar problem descriptions/solutions on the web. We were resigned to either calling an appliance repairman or purchasing a new unit. These options would have cost us more than we were prepared to spend at this time.

Thank you for this forum. I hope that this positive resolution encourages others to seek advise here and also share their knowledge with others.

Thank you again Eric !
JD