The C in the model number usually designates that it is a Canadian model so I do not have access to any info on it.
The 970 designates that it is actually a Frigidaire.

I am assuming that broil works.
Also that the oven stays in preheat (never or takes a long time to come ready)

Below is a manual (US models) but may be useful to you. You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=283

The element rear support bracket is on the outside of the calrod (ceramic) insulation so should not short the element heating wires out.
Use your meters most sensitive resistance scale and re-check the element. It is a good idea to shrt the meter leads together before measuring to see if there is a zero offset in the meter.
Most elements are in the 20 to 30 ohm range.
Checking from the element connectors to the metal plate should be infinite ohms.

Page 30 in the manual shows basic wiring for a stove.
As you can see one side of the elements is hard wired to L2.
The other side goes through a control relay on the board and then to L1.
Just in case you do not know about electrical I will try and explain how it works.
Your house supply is actually two 120 volt supplies that share a common ground/Neutral. They are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at positive 120 volts the other is at negative 120 volts, therefore there is 240 volts between them and this is the voltage that runs the elements.
Neutral is not part of the element supply voltage/current path.

On many Canadian models there is also a DLB (double line break) relay on the board. This disconnects the L2 voltage to both elements when the oven is off.

I do not thing that the bake element relay on the board is closing or it has bad relay contacts so you see the 120 from the DLB relay and not the full 240 volts across the element.

I would trace the wires from the element (both sides) back up to the board just to be sure they have not put a thermal cutoff (fuse) in one of the lines.

You could also check the solder side or the board for a bad/over heated connection.
Below is a link to a post on a unit with this type of problem.
http://forum.appliancepartspros...er-oven-not-working.html

Sorry but I cannot be helpful here.

You need a wiring diagram.

I did see on one site that the unit was the same as a PLEF398AC but I cannot confirm this as the Sears Canadian parts site is pretty useless so I cannot even check if the parts on the two units are the same.

The relay that you show could be a DLB relay.
Also I do not know what the thermal switch/cut-off above the relay is for.

All I can suggest is that you try to get a wiring diagram from Sears.

I tested the wires and found that the one on the left is the one not sending any power, I followed it up into the top and attached is a pic of where it goes.

I also found the wiring diagram stuffed in there so that is attached as well.

From my test the wire on the right which goes to the little relay beside it works, it is abour 3v off and when yo turn bake on it goes to about 115v. The wire that comes down from the control panel does not seem to work, it is 2v off and when you turn bake on it goes down to about .05v, one of the convection element wires is spliced into this wire as can be see in the one photo.

If it is the control panel that needs replacing, how do I go about finding a new one?

There are places out there that fix obsolete control boards, just Google "appliance timer repair".