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callingdoug  
#1 Posted : Thursday, March 27, 2014 11:20:51 PM(UTC)
callingdoug

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This is a wild one for me. Someone bypassed (or something) the adaptive defrost control board and rigged in an off brand defrost timer. The fridge has had its issues with getting very cold since I bought it but has recently started not even getting to 35 degrees. In my searching, I noticed the aftermarket part and when I looked for a replacement I find that there isn't even supposed to be one. The wiring was done pretty well because I can't tell how to re-wire it correctly so I can replace the adaptive defrost control board.

Can anyone send/post me a picture of one of how it should be wired - I included mine in the pdf attachment? The white part toward the top right is the offending part, has some purplish text on it. Odd request but I don’t know what else to do.

thanks in advance for any help...
File Attachment(s):
control board area.pdf (308kb) downloaded 3 time(s).
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, March 28, 2014 1:43:00 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KSRG25FKWH01 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

See then attachment for some info in the timers.

[COLOR="Blue"]The fridge has had its issues with getting very cold since I bought it but has recently started not even getting to 35 degrees.
[/COLOR]
I am not sure what the problem is.
Is the 35 in the freezer?
If it is 35 in the fresh food then that is actually colder than recommended.

In order to check if there is a defrost problem you have to remove the panel in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils.
If the coils are frosted/iced over to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them then it is a defrost problem.

The adaptive defrost board may have been swapped out because it kept blowing. This could be due to the power to the fridge, if it is not a dedicated line then it could have had voltage spikes on it which would blow the board. Replacing the board with a timer would solve this, also adding an appliance surge protector to the line can solve this.

Another symptom of a defrost problem is that the compressor runs constantly other than when it is in a defrost cycle.
This is also a symptom of a sealed system problem.

A defrost problem usually shows up in the fresh food section first and later the freezer temperature starts to rise.
FYI the freezer temperature should be between 0 and 5 degrees F. The fresh food temperature around 40 degrees usually a little below this.

Check the evaporator coil.
Check that the evaporator fan is running OK.
Check that the compressor and it's fan are running OK
Check/clean the condenser coils.
Check/clean the kick plate and rear cover vents.
File Attachment(s):
KSRG25.pdf (592kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
D Timer Install.pdf (404kb) downloaded 3 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
callingdoug  
#3 Posted : Friday, March 28, 2014 3:15:01 AM(UTC)
callingdoug

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Joined: 3/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

I didn't mention, I'm in Costa Rica. I'm sure the reason for the additional timer was because the person who had the fridge was too cheap to buy the original replacement part and the CR "tech" (and I use that word loosely here in CR) said they could rig it to work.

I've been through most all the testing of parts things. The fridge has no defrost issues, no buildup of ice/frost, no blocked airways or drainage, and no freezing issues - and the other things on your list check out fine. It simply won't cool to lower temperatures in the fridge side - the freezer side was nifty until the last few days (I'm going to do a temp replacement of the timer until I can do a correct repair). I want things in the fridge colder by choice and it simply won't (again, I've tried all the options like setting freezer less cold so the vent is open more, turning the fridge part lower, etc.), I could not get it lower than 35 in the shelf area and would only hit that temp after extended periods of being closed, like overnight. Otherwise it always struggled (I have a separate temp guage) and typical day temps are 38-40 or so on the shelves. I'm in a very humid and hot environment, I prefer colder in the fridge because I want colder liquids. I should be able to, like I did on my previous fridge, adjust it because it was getting too cold. I've never been able to do such a thing with this fridge.

I'm sure the add on part is starting to fail but I don't want to have it rigged, I want it correct. Thank you for the wiring schematic. I'm not a full tech guy but I'll give it a go. A picture of the inside of that control area would really help if you have access to get one so I can hopefully see what was changed from original and get it back to original wiring.
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, March 28, 2014 5:27:55 AM(UTC)
denman

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Since the unit has never been able to reach/maintain the 35 degrees you want I may not be able to get there.

Different units have different minimum temperatures that they can reach.
It depends on the ambient temperature, the compressor/air flow design, insulation type/rating, etc.

If the evaporator coil has an even coating of frost (not clogged up) and the compressor runs all the time then my conclusion would be that it will never reach the set point you want.

You could check the door seals.
Make sure they are clean.
Take a two inch wide strip of paper and place it between the frame and seal
Then pull it out to check the seal.
Work your way around both doors every 8 inches or so.
Check that the hinge side of the seal is not grabbing and twisting when closing the door. If it is a light coating of white lithium grease or vaseline should fix this.
Check that the cams on the door and hinges are OK. The door should be on a down cam when closed. This helps keep it closed.
Check that the unit is level front to back or leaning slightly to the back.
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