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EnzoS  
#1 Posted : Thursday, March 6, 2014 4:31:34 PM(UTC)
EnzoS

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

This one's driving me nuts. The igniter won't glow. Consequently, no dryer heat. Checked everything that normally goes bad. The only thing left that might be keeping the igniter from getting its neutral return is the motor centrifugal switch...if my model's motor switch does indeed control the igniter.

I'm trying to avoid a complete dismantling of the dryer to get to the motor just to troubleshoot this switch so the question is: is there a reasonable method to bypass the 1M / 2M switch (temporarily) just to see if the igniter will start to glow? In other words, what connection points on other, more accessible component terminals might I be able to attach a jumper to simulate closed motor switch contacts???

I'm hoping that I am referring to the correct wiring diagram for my dryer. I found 2 similar schematics on the internet. One has 2 separate motor switches whereas the other has only 1. I fear my dryer has the motor with the pair of switches and one of them is not making contact causing the igniter to never turn on.

Hope all this makes sense and someone else has experienced the same problem. Of course, many thanks to anyone who replies to this posting.

Enzo
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 6, 2014 6:50:21 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Do you not have the wiring diagram for your model? Should be inside the control panel or cabinet somewhere. I use a test wire that I connect to ground and insert the other end into the solenoid with 3-pin connector on it. Connect ground to the black wire (go into back of connector) of that connector. This will bypass the motor switch.

Eric
EnzoS  
#3 Posted : Friday, March 7, 2014 11:11:55 AM(UTC)
EnzoS

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks for the quick reply Eric,

Yes...I found the correct wiring diagram for my model inside the control panel. It shows that the motor does indeed have the 2 switches...one of which solely controls the igniter, solenoids and all the sensors, fuses, and detectors.

I am now relatively confident that if I connect a jumper from the black wire on the igniter (which is also connected to the one solenoids' terminals as you indicated) to a neurtal connection, the igniter should glow upon startup. It also appears that a neutral connection can be found at one of the thermostat heater violet wire connections...which is very convenient to access and would not require complete dismantling of the dryer to get to.

My next step is to try this experiment, hope I don't blow something up, then give a thumbs up/thumbs down to the motor start switch.

Thank you again for your comments. I'll get back to the forum with my results.

Enzo
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