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Originally Posted by: abbie  When This Seal Is Bad The Water Will Run Down The Gearcase Post And Get Into The Gearcase.. I'm replacing the centerpost seal on my Kenmore 1107460600, but the tub has been leaking for some time and I am concerned about the status of lubrication underneath. I don't want to do a complete overhaul, which I assume taking apart the gearbox would involve. How concerned should I be about the condition of the gearbox, etc. So far, washing hasn't been unusually noisy, and there's no squealing. I recently replaced the drive belt.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/19/2008(UTC)
Posts: 45
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Abbie
I assembled the unit without the turbine oil in the support bearings. What is turbine oil and where do you get it? Also as I have posted elsewhere, I have developed this problem, any ideas?:
"I have rebuilt this Kenmore washer with a new tub support, drivetrain, and basket. The machine was runnng well but after about 10 cycles it started screaching/singing at spin speeds. I found it to be the top seal in the tub support, the one that you have to press into the top of the new tub support tube. With the basket removed, if I squeeze the seal a little while the machine is running, the noise goes away. When I assembled the machine I did not lubricate this seal (just as I was advised), I just pressed it in and inserted the brake tube/transmission. Have I done something wrong or is this seal failing? BTW, when I pressed it in I made the top of the seal shoulder (the friction part, not the very top) flush with the top of the tube."
Thanks,
George
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/19/2008(UTC)
Posts: 45
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I dissasembled a 1 month old washer and took a closer look at the new support tube to get to the bottom of this question.
The bottom inside structure of the centerpost tube/tub support is unchanged - two small rubber seals in the bottom (359449), packed with Rykon grease, topped with a single metal bearing (8546455). The top of the tube innards have changed. The top bearing is closer to the top of the tube, not even one of the old large top rubber seals (356934) would fit, nevermind the two that used to be called for. In this regard, the exploded parts diagrams and their descriptions are wrong, they have not been modified to show this. Now a single redesigned, smaller seal is used and the bottom section of the seal has a grease channel. The part number for this seal is unchanged (356934). If you just need to replace the 2 top seals in an old tube, you need to try and get a pair of the old larger seal and grease the top one only. If you have a newer tube you need one of the newer small top seals. I have gotten both when ordering 356934.
Also, this single top seal must be greased. I first assembled the washer with the seal dry as was suggested and the seal failed after about 10 hours. The seal started singing loudly at spin speeds and scored the stainless spin tube shaft. Also, in a new installation, the top shoulder of the seal is just below the top of the tube. Be careful because if you are not using a centerpost seal installation tool, the seal can jump past a small recess as the shoulder clears the top of the tube. I have constructed a PVC pipe based installer that fits inside the tube diameter and has an outer sleeve to limit travel.
The install sequence is: 2 lower seals (greased) and bearing. Install the top bearing. Install the brake tube. Pour 1 tsp of turbine oil down the assembly. Pack the top seal with grease and assemble.
George
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