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And that's in agitation mode, not drain/spin? I thought the clicking was in drain/spin.
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  And that's in agitation mode, not drain/spin? I thought the clicking was in drain/spin. I think it is both. First of all, it didn't drain. What you saw in the second video was me forcing a full bin of water into the spin cycle. That's when that large clicking occurred and you can even see Something Inside the motor lunging forward. I think this is the source of the noise. However, when I place it directly in spin cycle it starts and spins without a hitch. Could it be the weight of the water in the bin?
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Originally Posted by: jbresset I think it is both. First of all, it didn't drain. What you saw in the second video was me forcing a full bin of water into the spin cycle. That's when that large clicking occurred and you can even see Something Inside the motor lunging forward. I think this is the source of the noise.
However, when I place it directly in spin cycle it starts and spins without a hitch. Could it be the weight of the water in the bin? So I drained the water using the spin cycle. I then put a wet towel in the bin and let it run through the spin cycle. It did it's job, but at the end of the cycle there was a burning smell. You never answered my previous question about the pump; just it spin freely or have some resistance?
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I think you should have a tech look at it. Need to take some live line voltage checks at the motor while it's operating to determine if there is a voltage drop problem. The clicking in the motor is the centrifugal switch kicking in and out because the motor is running too slowly. This could be due to a number of things including voltage drop issue, clothing between the tubs, a bad basket drive, sticking brakes, faulty timer,faulty gearcase...etc. Sorry, but this back and forth exchange between expert and rookie isn't going to work this time. The pump will have just a little bit of resistance.
Eric
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As the expert, for a 7 year old machine, knowing the diagnosis probabilities, would you invest in a technician visit and the repair fee? Would it be smart money to replace the unit?:confused:
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Well, I recently spent several hundred bucks on repair parts for my own 11 year old washer because I refuse to buy any of the junk they are selling nowadays. The machine you have is a Whirlpool direct drive design which was in production for nearly 30 years. It's still in production for commercial units. The replacement design that Whirlpool came up with is a totally different belt drive design which has had a huge amount of problems and they have only been in production for 3 years. All new washers have to comply with ever increasing government restrictions on energy use including how much water they use. The only decent top loader left are the Speed Queen models that run $800-$900 but again, they have a low rinse water level due to government restrictions. As for the repair of your washer, it may be something very simple such as clothing stuck between the tubs or a bad motor switch but at this point, you need someone experienced to troubleshoot the problem.
Eric
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