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thorning  
#1 Posted : Friday, August 31, 2012 4:15:36 AM(UTC)
thorning

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Posts: 248

I just acquired the above mentioned electric dryer that needs repair. According to the previous owner it would rotate but not heat. He suggested it needed a new heating element. I checked the element but it appears to be OK electrically. All the thermal fuses check OK and the thermostats I can see check OK. Am I missing a t-stat as I can only see 2. ? Also the light bulb is burned out but I cant see that stopping the unit from heating. Since it turns the drum the door switch must be OK.
What value of Resistance should I expect for the heater element when I test it ? Any other suggestions . I cannot hook it up to 220 volt power very easily but could I use 110 volt on one side of the input to check it out ?
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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Friday, August 31, 2012 12:46:43 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

There are total 4 thermostats: 2 on the blower housing and 2 on the heater box. Take one wire off the heating element and thermostats when checking continuity.
With out the 240VAC your diagnostics is not good.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.c...odel.aspx?model_id=44280

Simon.
thorning  
#3 Posted : Friday, August 31, 2012 1:14:00 PM(UTC)
thorning

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I must have something different than what you mention. The wiring instruction sheet that was pasted on the inside of the console area is a document number 1172VD-0696. It only shows 2 thermostats--one of these is called the cycling t-stat and the other is called a high limit t-stat.
There are 2 thermal fuses in addition however. All of these items check out correctly. Is there a possibility that the timer can be the problem area ? I am going to try and hookup a 240 volt plug to be able to do some testing but need some advice about testing the timer or other areas of this dryer. Your input is needed
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Friday, August 31, 2012 1:50:09 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

You are correct - it's two thermal fuses and two thermostats.
When you'll hook up the240VAC trace the missing 120VAC leg and post the results.

Good luck.

Simon.
thorning  
#5 Posted : Saturday, September 1, 2012 6:24:21 AM(UTC)
thorning

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Joined: 8/25/2012(UTC)
Posts: 248

I am getting a hook up for 240 volts for this dryer to check it out further. I suspect the timer is not working to allow heat to be generated. The diagram I have which was pasted inside the console points me in the direction of jumpering the terminals BU to Bk on the timer. Is there any danger to this procedure ? If there is can I do something else to verify the timer is the problem ?
thorning  
#6 Posted : Saturday, September 1, 2012 11:57:42 AM(UTC)
thorning

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Joined: 8/25/2012(UTC)
Posts: 248

I have just completed the hookup of this dryer to 240 volts and ran a test. As it is now , it will rotate fine but no heat. I jumpered temporarily between the blue and black terminal positions on the timer and got plenty of heat. The timer seems to advance OK but w/o the jumper there is no heat in any cycle arrangement. Is there any other tests I can do on the timer or is it kaput based on this info ? These timers are pretty expensive for Maytag dryers and I hope to find a used one somewhere. Anyone have a used one to fit this machine ?
Simon / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Sunday, September 2, 2012 8:11:22 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi.

From the info you provided you do have the bad timer.

Simon.
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