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Thanks for all the help. I am replacing both due the age of the dryer.
Let you know how it goes.
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Just how hot should the back of the dryer get? I replaced both stats, checked the heating coil, cleaned everything and the back is still getting real hot.
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Hot is a relative term so I cannot really say other than they can get fairly hot.
Everything checks out OK yet you still have a problem. I would say the internal temperatures of the drier are OK because you have not blown a thermal fuse.
The only other thing I can think of is the heat is escaping into dryer case due to a bad seal but I would have thought it would cause the unit to run too hot and blow the thermal fuse.
I'M STUMPED
I am going to post this thread in the Tech Talk section with a little luck someone else will have an idea or see something that I have overlooked. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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thanks for the reply. the back gets hot enough that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than a second. It is hot on the heat shield but more so on the left side looking from the back. This is where the info sticker was and it got scorched off due to the heat.
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Originally Posted by: denman  when i test the control stat, I have 0.000 on the end to end terminals and 1.0 on the top to bottom which according to the diagram is the heater contact you discribed. When I hear it click, I test both sets and they both read 1.00. When the stat click back or opens the I get the original readings. Should they both be open??
No only the contacts should open but your reading seems to indicate that the contacts are not opening.
Note: I did find a couple GE wiring diagrams that used an internal heater and both of them showed the heater as 9 kilohm.
Your readings show that something is haywire with this thermostat. Does the meter being used have the capabilities of checking temps? If yes, I'd suggest getting the probe to dangle right in front of the filter inlet and see just what kind of temp it's producing in the drum. If it's in the range of the cycle stat differential you know it's working correctly. Could also check the out going air a few inches inside the dryer vent and it should be close. For what it's worth, and it's been awhile since I ran lots of house calls, but I know I remember seeing discolored wiring diagrams, along with discoloration of back panels. Never thought a whole lot of it. Maybe I'm way off base, but sure don't remember any fires caused by it. Is it a long vent run? If there are elbows involved, how many?
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I would jam a cheap oven thermometer in the dryer output ducting and measure the temperature, probably around 150-165 degrees. If so, you have a airfrow problem. I would check for airflow problems inside the dryer.
I use a cheap ,U shaped, four inch high manometer (Dwyer model 460) about $18 and use the airflow from a known "good" dryer as a reference pressure.With two plastic balls in the manometer, they rise to the top for good airflow. For poor airflow, the balls will only get 1/4 to 1/2 up. This manometer will pick up non-laminar flow (turbulence), usually due to a lint clog, collapsed duct, or any fitting that causes the air to hit a perpendicular surface, ex. a thin box adapter.
Without a manometer, you can use a piece of string and compare how high it goes compared to a known "good" arflow from another home dryer vent.
You can use it to compare airflow right from the dryer to the airflow outside when the ducting is attached.
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Originally Posted by: donald.may thanks for the reply. the back gets hot enough that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than a second. It is hot on the heat shield but more so on the left side looking from the back. This is where the info sticker was and it got scorched off due to the heat. If you haven't done so already disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer then run it on the cycle you normally use. Does it run any cooler? If no difference then pull the drum out of the dryer and inspect the element. Check to see if the coil is touching the case or if one of the insulators the coil is strung through is allowing a connection or path to ground. Also while you have the front off check the vent assembly that the lint filter sets into. Also check the blower wheel.
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