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Here's another thought from looking at the photo and the schematics: Apply power from the red wire to spade lug 1 or 2 only (they're connected according to the instruction sheet with the new relay). The relay will momentarily supply power internally to 6 (start connection of the compressor) and switch it off after the compressor starts. Since lug 1 or 2 is always directly connected to 5 (the run connection on the compressor) it will power the compressor until turned off by the thermostat. Sound Good? As long as the run pin on the compressor can take 110v directly I don't see where any damage can occur.
Paul
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Generally, compressor resistance measurements just show the windings are not blown open. They can be a burnt mess, but still measure ok with a low voltage meter.
Your nametag must show R12 refrigerant and the fridg is more than 17 years old. In this case, the resistance from the top pin of the compressor to bottom left is higher than the top pin to lower right. This lower left pin then is the start pin. This is the standard configuration for the older compressors.
If this is true, just retain the overload device for the top pin.
Now measure the black start device you ordered. One of the input spade terminals must be shorted to the right, round output pin and show around 5 ohms to the round, left output pin. if this is true, the device will work in your fridg.Now fridg power wires go between this pin and the overload pin.
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You are correct about the age - we think we got it around 1978. Also correct on pin info per markings on old part. Confused about using the overload for the top pin as it has been wired all these years into the red hot wire going to the relay. Also your statemant about connecting the "power wires" between the relay and the overload pin of the compressor - I assume the red hot goes to the correct lug on the relay and the white neutral goes to the top compressor pin. I will be back from work by 1 pm and will pull it forward to open it up and do the measurements.
Thanx Again - Paul
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You must use an overload device in this compressor, will prevent compressor burnout on power surges and temperature overloads. The compressor should have a 20 amp overload Klixon AP2061490. The lack of an overload is not a good sign, your compressor may be burnt out. You will not know till you plug it in. You can plug it in temporarily till the part comes in.
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I have an overload relay and assume it's OK. It was just never wired in to the top pin on the compressor as I think you suggested. I will keep it in it's place on the red wire just before the start relay as it always was. Off to tear it down...
Paul
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Well it did not work - I can hear/feel the compressor starting to spin but a few seconds later the overload trips and it stops spinning. After a short time it tries again. The time between tries gets longer as the overload gets warmer (the relay stays cool). Relay still has 5 ohms between pins 1 or 2 and the output socket 6 for the start pin on the compressor and no resistance to output socket 5. I have a watt meter on the wall outlet and it temporarily goes from 45 watts to over 2,000 at times before/as the overload trips then back to 45. Fridge schematic/tech sheet says 300 to 420 running watts. If I unplug the start relay and provide 110v to any of it's 4 spade lugs all other lugs have 110v constantly - it never seems to trip (does it need a load for it to activate?).
Paul
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Yes, the ptc start device needs a load current to open up. Seems like you have a compressor with burnt run winding, or with internal mechanical problems. Best to get a new refrigerator, will pay for itself in 3-4 years due to energy savings.
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Looks like you are correct - windings on one side are now completely open.
Thanx - Paul
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