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Originally Posted by: theplumber2001  ,
Ok got the model number from the other fridge and hopefully right, only differance is the # is for a great working HotPoint Model#CSX25GRBB the one in question is exactly the same except has culligan water filter and is a G E ....Black instead of white, Oh, and of course the fact the old one works great and this one , Well, lets say a learning lesson
Thanks for all the help, I am now at the point of just need to know...
2hrs later, (still at 38 - 40 freezer degrees and still running... I guess at this point and time, My biggest Question is: how could this fridge be such a piece of c.... and not work proper being off/unpluged a few days, transported 5 miles , and not work if previous owner claims " It worked great, just wanted a new stainless " , "I was gonna get dbl the price for it on xxxx...." What, if anything could have happened being off (If it worked proper in the 1st place) a few days and moved 5 miles down the road......??????? Never on side , never bounced. When our other fridge, given to step son and his wife works super, (needed ice bucket to dispence only ) It was off maybe 2 hrs max during 20 mile move, with plenty bumps in road etc... The broken fridge is suppose to be 2 -3 years newer ... any in put is welcome at this point, I just have a hard time believing it did not have problems in the first place Thanks Again, and believe me, I love this site ,( A lot of Great help & prices) but hopefully, will only tell a friend and not for my own problems in the future ....Thanks,
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If the compressor is running the whole time not short cycling you may have a refrigeration problem. To check this, remove the cover off the evaporator inside the freezer. Once done you should see the coils and on the coils there should be a thin layer (not thick ice) of frost along the entire coils. Post what you find.
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Originally Posted by: applianceman If the compressor is running the whole time not short cycling you may have a refrigeration problem. To check this, remove the cover off the evaporator inside the freezer. Once done you should see the coils and on the coils there should be a thin layer (not thick ice) of frost along the entire coils. Post what you find.
We had an apprentice repair guy suggest since it was moved, to turn off and let sit a couple days and retry, letting any oil drain back down were it belongs... he claims to have had the same problem and this worked for him.. So that's what we are trying at this point, seems simple enough, we will know Friday......
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Turning off a few days was no help,
Checked coils behind freezer panel and at the bottom row was thick frost/ice, rest of coils no frost / no ice........
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Rank: Member
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TRhat's exacyly what I see, with ice at the verry bottom of coils and tube, upper part seems warm and no ice.....
Thanks
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Just checked and the compressor was off, had to mess/move the wire and part at compressor to come back on....
Still looks like it is gonna ice at bottom row and warm at top......
New fridge time ?????
Thanks for the help, Steve
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I would say that only it sounds like the compressor is short cycling which may be caused by a loose connection at the compressor. Take the cover off the side of the compressor and check for loose connections.
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Believe it or not we finally found the model# TFX25zpbc bb ,
it still ices on bottom of coils, when it stops? I mess with wires under cover gets it going, does this part unplug or ? I guess then the shake test or? Just replace parts and say a prayer ? The overload on top of the relay (looked at diagram) the top of it almost feel off... pushed back down and on again. Still with the ice at bottom of freezer, 1st row... nothing above..... The cover I left off the relay and overload... and panel off back of freezer compartment to watch the frost to ice..
Thanks Again, Hope you have a great weekend, Steve
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Rank: Member
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It's Sunday , figured out how to get the overload and relay off compressor...... the relay is broken top piece of plastic off in two pieces, will buy new one. Should I get the relay at the same time?????
It actually looked as if it had been posably messed with it before.
New Question: When plugging these back in, should I plug the overload first then the relay???? or should it matter ? It seems the overload will not plug in and match up prongs unless the relay is off first ......
(model # TFX25ZPBC BB )
Thanks, Steve
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