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tmckeithan  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 30, 2011 5:07:47 PM(UTC)
tmckeithan

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Posts: 4

My electric dryer will not start. When I push the button, I hear no humming, buzzing, no lights, nothing. Based on what I've seen in other forums, I've tested the AC voltage (at the back of the dryer - good), the thermal fuse (had continuity - even tried bypassing it), the door switch (was good - had continuity when closed).

Any other suggestions? Someone said it could be the motor. Is this a possibility?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 1, 2011 4:59:36 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Someone said it could be the motor. Is this a possibility?[/COLOR]
Yes it is a possibility.

You said "no lights", the wiring diagram does not show a drum light but if your unit has one and it went out at the same time as the no run problem then I would suspect a power problem or a door switch problem.

When you checked the power did you check that L1 to Neutral was 120 volts? This is the voltage that runs the motor.

Unplug the unit and check the timer contacts M to L should be 0 ohms when in a run cycle. If OK then check M to S should be 0 ohms when start pushed.

When checking for resistance/continuity always disconnect one side of any device you are checking. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive meter scale.
tmckeithan  
#3 Posted : Saturday, December 3, 2011 3:53:20 PM(UTC)
tmckeithan

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I did have 120 AC L1 to Neutral

Also had 0 ohms between those contacts when in run mode and the other when pushing the button.

Motor?
denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, December 4, 2011 2:39:57 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Motor?[/COLOR]
Could be but lets try checking the wiring and parts as a circuit.

Unplug the unit and attach one meter lead to the Neutral on the power cord.
You could tape it onto the connector if you do not have clips.
Leave it there.
Now set the dryer to a mid cycle air fluff auto mode, door closed.
The reason you use auto is that it puts the timer motor into the heater circuit, also it adds the 377,000 ohm resistor to the circuit so even if it does somehow feed back (parallel circuit). It would be a high resistance. If left in timed dry then the timer motor winding is between L1 and Neutral so it could give confusing readings.
Set your meter to the most sensitive scale.
Now work your way back through the unit.
At the motor 1 White, should be 0 ohms. This sows that the fuse and door switch are OK.
At the motor 2 Purple there should be a resistance. I am not sure what it should be so if you get no reading (open) raise your meter scale.
S at the timer (Purple) should be the same as above.
M timer with start switch pushed should be the same as above.
L timer with start switch pushed should be the same as above
L1 on the line cord with start switch pushed should be the same as above.

I hope I did a decent job of explaining this!!
tmckeithan  
#5 Posted : Sunday, December 4, 2011 4:59:59 PM(UTC)
tmckeithan

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I just checked all those test points. I had 0 ohms at white, but open - even at highest resistance range at all the other points. I was looking at my schematic and I tested L1 to Purple and got 0 ohms with the start button pushed and 0 ohms from L1 to Orange all the time. It seems I am getting an open resistance reading from one side of the motor coil to the other.
tmckeithan  
#6 Posted : Sunday, December 4, 2011 6:15:34 PM(UTC)
tmckeithan

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I went ahead and pulled the motor. Between contacts 1 and 2 on the motor I read open. Shouldn't I be reading something there?
denman  
#7 Posted : Sunday, December 4, 2011 11:54:45 PM(UTC)
denman

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Posts: 19,638

Sounds like the motor is shot and will have to be replaced.
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