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Frassettoed  
#81 Posted : Thursday, January 20, 2011 5:36:29 AM(UTC)
Frassettoed

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
There is no a such manuals but there is nothing complicated if you know how to handle a simple tools.

Gene.


Ok - well I unscrewed everything that needed to be unscrewed and took the freezer apart. There was absolutely no frost/ice on the coils in the back of the freezer and the fan seems to be working just fine in there.

However, I did notice that the vent that is supposed to open allowing cold air from the freezer to circulate to the fridge was 80-90% of the way shut (I had to get inside the freezer with a flashlight to figure that one out.)

I undid the panel at the top of the fridge with the freezer/fridge knobs, undid a metal connector piece that goes back to the vent, and pulled the thermostat cord from the vent (I assume that is what it is) out along with the components that were up there in the panel. I'm not sure exactly why the vent isn't opening, if it's the thermostat or if it's something else but what I did for now was I manually opened the vent with a butter knife and just left everything unplugged until tomorrow or something.

The part number on the thing that might be having problems is now visible - but I'm not sure where to begin correcting said problem.

Thanks again for taking the time. People helpin' people, it's good stuff...

JC
Gene  
#82 Posted : Thursday, January 20, 2011 12:32:27 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Frassettoed Go to Quoted Post
...There was absolutely no frost/ice on the coils in the back of the freezer and the fan seems to be working just fine in there...


If the refrigerator was ON at this time and the compressor was running then this is very bad sign. Normally the coils should be about 100% covered with thin snow. Clean coils means the sealed system is low on Freon or the compressor is not pumping Freon properly.

Gene.
mcyoder  
#83 Posted : Sunday, January 30, 2011 3:19:16 PM(UTC)
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I also have a Maytag MSD2641KEB side by side... same problem as others were the fridge isn't cold, but freezer is. Took the panel off the back of the freezer and the coils were heavily covered... Where do I go from here??? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Mike
mcyoder  
#84 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 5:31:01 AM(UTC)
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Update... last night I defrosted the evap. coils in the freezer and now the fridge side is cooling down to 30-34 degrees...
Gene  
#85 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 12:12:02 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: mcyoder Go to Quoted Post
Update... last night I defrosted the evap. coils in the freezer and now the fridge side is cooling down to 30-34 degrees...


The problem is a faulty defrost system.

You may want to start the troubleshooting with testing for continuity the defrost thermostat (must be cold at the test time) and the defrost heater. They are shown as #3 & #7 on the diagram.

If they both are good, replace the Adaptive Defrost Control (#12 on the diagram).

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4080326
quent223  
#86 Posted : Friday, April 22, 2011 6:58:48 PM(UTC)
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Read all of the prior posts. My freezer was cold, fridge was warm. Took off pack panel in freezer everything was frozen as was vent to fridge. Thawed everything out. Found that two connections to coils had broken replaced them. Plugged back in and everything started up and the coils started frosting. Except fan in freezer did not come on. Compressor and lower fan ran. Left it for about and hour. Came back and everything was off. Thought I would just have to replace fan in freezer but now nothing runs. It is a Hotpoint CTX14CYSFLAD. Any help is appreciated! Quentin
Gene  
#87 Posted : Tuesday, April 26, 2011 1:13:28 PM(UTC)
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Quentin,

Sorry for the delay.

Looks like there is a faulty defrost system in your refrigerator. You have to perform the troubleshooting as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...frigerator-too-warm.html

The evaporator fan motor has to be tested for continuity.

The defrost timer is located inside the control box (#648 on the diagram).

- The defrost timer Part number: AP2061708
Part number: AP2061708



- The defrost heater Part number: AP2635763
Part number: AP2635763



- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP2071264
dewetsel  
#88 Posted : Monday, May 30, 2011 2:47:00 AM(UTC)
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So, if I understand you are saying the damper control will not work if there is a problem with the defrost cycle. There is no air blowing in my Amana ARB2117BC refrigerator and the freezer is iced up.

We replaced the defrost sensor a couple of weeks ago and then ultimately had to replace the overload relay to get the refrigerator working again.
Gene  
#89 Posted : Monday, May 30, 2011 5:11:04 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: dewetsel Go to Quoted Post
...So, if I understand you are saying the damper control will not work if there is a problem with the defrost cycle...


Actually the damper control is not connected to the defrost system.

If there is something wrong with the defrost system then the evaporator coils will be iced up and there would not be any air flow through the coils.

On the other side, if there is a problem with the damper control, then the air gate will stay closed blocking the air flow.

You have to determine what is wrong in your refrigerator: defrost system or damper control.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for AMANA ARB2117BC REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Jumberg  
#90 Posted : Saturday, June 18, 2011 5:36:41 AM(UTC)
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I am having a similar problem with my Crosley ct19y5fw refrigerator. The freezer (top mount) is working GREAT. The refrigerator is getting to about 55 degrees. We thought it was the seal/gasket so we have been tying the door closed to make sure it was a tight seal, and that hasn't helped.

There is a TON of condensation on the ceiling of the refrigerator section.

I've read some of the replies and was hoping to look into things on my own, but I am NOT an expert (or even a novice) in these things. There is not a panel to take off the back, so I assume everything has to be accessed from the inside.

I'm afraid the fridge is just done and we will need a new one---not really in a position to do that though. I don't even have a clue how much these possible repairs, if needed, would cost.

Thanks for any help you can give!
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